In a secret list of favorite foods, onion rings would be at the top. I love them, can't stop eating them, have never passed them up on any menu. So you can trust me when I tell you how incredibly difficult it is to find a really great one. Well, I just did. At Ben Benson's, the two-fisted, New York steakhouse on West 52nd Street. Served in thin, delicate brown loops that would make perfect Hula Hoops for Barbie Dolls, the crust is so crisp that it shatters when you take a bite and discover the pungent, tender circles hiding inside. They're everything you want in an onion ring, and I can finish the enormous plate all by myself and still be sad when I discover that there are no more. I wish I had a few right now. Ben Benson's Steak House 123 W 52nd St, New York City 212-581-8888
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