Gold, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's new restaurant in Milan, brings glitz to a new level. The concept restaurant/bistro near their Metropole
showroom is designed almost entirely in gold and meant to be the first in a
brand catering to luxury-leaning night people. Paris Hilton and Kylie Minogue
were among the first clients. But now all the buzz about Gold revolves around a
dubious award it won from Italy's most popular satiric TV program,
Striscia La Notizia, which looks at the news from behind the
scenes. It seems the new restaurant was dissed in a review in Milan's august
financial daily,
Il Sole 24 Ore, when it first opened last year.
Reviewer Camilla Baresani liked the razzle-dazzle and the over-the-top bathroom
but was put off by the food, especially a
cotelletta alla Milanese she
said was "oily, strangely sweet" and tasted as if it had been heated
in a microwave.
Dolce &
Gabbana subsequently pulled their fashion advertising from
Il Sole 24 Ore. Whereupon the
financial daily sent another food critic, the nationally known Davide Paolini,
back to the restaurant, and he produced a positive review. "It's true. We
have to defend ourselves," shrugged Gabbana on Striscia when he was nailed
by the bearer of the Tapiro d'Oro (Golden Tapir, a sort of Raspberries award
presented by the TV crew to unsuspecting winners wherever they catch them). The
fashion team won the Golden Tapir (a gilt statuette of one of the ugliest
hoofed mammals known to man) for the entire event. Dolce was even more
good-natured about accepting the award when accosted by the TV crew at his
atelier. "We're going to rename the veal cutlet cotelletta tapirata,"
he declared.
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