Rech, an old-fashioned fish house (founded in 1925) in the 17th Arrondissement has recently been taken over by chef Alain Ducasse. And that should have been a good thing. Instead, we were greeted with: “We don’t have your reservation.” After eventually securing a table, it took 15 minutes for a menu to arrive. The wine list followed in 10—after we’d ordered. We poured our own wine throughout the meal, during which none of the staff ever paused at the table to see if we were happy or needed anything else.
Opposite us, a table of three Quebecois also complained about the glacial pace of the service. I started with lobster salad ($51)—five pieces, including two claws, in a shallow bowl with trimmed baby romaine leaves, a few shavings of Parmesan, a scattering of croutons, and a puddle of fishy smelling but oddly tasteless dressing. Tronçons de sole meuniere ($61) arrived as three un-boned hunks of overcooked sole in a slick of tasteless butter-and-parsley sauce, with a side of soggy baby potatoes with red pepper strips. Dessert was a foot-long éclair ($16) of supermarket quality. The wine—a Domaine Brana Iroleguy, which we’d just drunk for $40 in a Saint Jean de Luz bistro—cost a hefty $90. The sommelier took the order with no comment and never appeared at the table to pour after opening the bottle. Next time, we’re going back to Le Dome in Montparnasse, another old-fashioned seafood place that also costs an arm and a leg. But it’s worth it for the simple, excellent food, the quiet buzz of a power crowd, and the precise, gracious service.First (And Last?) Taste: Rech
06.13.07
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