Tucked away on a pretty street on the eastern slope of the Butte de Montmartre, running toward Barbes-Rochechouart, Chéri Bibi (or "Darling Bibi," as the English-translated version in this L'Express article hilariously refers to it) is a sure sign this appealingly ramshackle and sociologically mixed neighborhood is next up for gentrification. The mushroom-colored dining room with a facade of folding glass doors that open fully on warm nights and a hip decor of antique architect's lamps, bare wood tables with craftpaper place mats, and vaguely Danish-modern, found-at-the-flea-market chairs has been packed with happy bobos ever since it opened a few weeks ago. It's the latest address from Yannig Samot, whose La Famille, and Le Refectoire, both near the Bastille, perfectly channel the various culinary desires of hip Parisians. La Famille serves up edgy, minimalist contemporary French cooking, Le Refectoire is coyly nostalgic with a menu that riffs on the simple dishes beloved of French children. Chéri Bibi is pure terroir, which means hearty, earthy, rustic French country cooking.
The chalkboard, with two menus—$25 for two courses, $33 for three—leads off with starters like a superb bacon-wrapped pork-and prune-terrine spiked with green peppercorns. Mains include beef braised with red peppers and cocoa beans, and bavette (skirt steak) with sautéed shallots. All of them come with a choice of sides—homemade frites, mashed potatoes, or sautéed vegetables. Follow with a serving of Laguiole cheese from the huge wheel in the middle of the dining room. The best buy bottle is a Lucien Muzard Santenay-Maladieres for $44, and service is friendly yet professional. A couch with chairs near the bar pulls locals for a Illy coffee or a first-rate Mojito, and the whole place has a sweet, funky vibe that's tres Parisien.
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