First Taste: Grom

05.22.07

The lines have been so long that every time I pass the place I keep on walking. But when it started raining on Saturday I rushed right over to GROM; nobody eats ice cream in the rain, right? Wrong. There was still enough of a line that when I asked for one of everything, the woman standing behind me started making a fuss. So I settled for a mere three flavors. But I'll be back. This new gelateria from Torino (a Slow Food favorite) is turning out fabulous and entirely organic gelatos. Extranoir, deep chocolate shot through with chocolate chips truly is extra. Gianduja (hazelnut and chocolate) tasted exactly the way it does when you get it in Italy. And grapefruit sorbet had a cold intensity; imagine grapefruit that has magically turned into something smooth, soft, creamy, and frozen melting gently in your mouth. I wanted to try the pistachio, the stracciatella, the zabaione, the lemon granita—but the people behind me were getting restless. It's going to be a long summer, and there will be plenty of time. Besides, it turns out that they deliver if you want enough. And I'm going to be wanting a lot. 2165 Broadway, New York City; 646-290-7233

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