In the local dialect of Avellino, the Campanian province east of Naples, mesali means "tablecloths," a sign of hospitality. Now, it is also the name of a new association of restaurants sprinkled around the mountains of Irpinia. The restaurants' joint concept mimics shepherds' transfer of sheep from mountain to valley (the group's subtitle is "Gastronomic Transhumance in Irpinia"), the idea being to hand off travelers one to another, so the travelers are guaranteed a warm welcome and good meal at each stop. All 11 members are committed to native ingredients, but traditions are individually interpreted; you might find avanguardia plates at one location and a rustic trattoria at another. Meals are from 15 to 50 euros (roughly $12-$38) including service and a cover charge (but excluding wine); eat at all 11 establishments and get a free meal at your favorite. But a good deal isn't the only draw: Irpinia's rustic soups, homemade pastas, ricotta, legumes, black truffles, chestnuts, and heirloom fruits and vegetables, along with the area's three DOCG wines—whites Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino and powerhouse red Taurasi—will have you baaing with pleasure. mesali.org (in Italian only)
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