The Sugar Rush

12.26.06

I have to add my two cents to the recent debate here on dessert-only restaurants. I worked as a pastry chef for years when there weren't many of us plying the trade. Long before the weird-science craze, I was playing with cotton candy and strange ice cream flavors, but it never really stuck. When black olive, lettuce, corn, and other "secular" flavors appeared, pastry chefs got notice. So I ask you: What's so weird about a restaurant dedicated to desserts? I think it's a great option. I go out especially for ice cream or coffee, so why not dessert? Plus it's a perfect first date. I root for pastry chefs—they've been underdogs for so long and are always the last employees to leave restaurants in the wee hours of the morning. So don't begrudge them a little of the spotlight.

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