Downes But Not Out

12.02.06

Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen project—maybe you’ve seen the TV show where 15 disadvantaged youths learn to express themselves through River Cafe-esque Italian restaurant cooking—has gotten off to an okay start in its first Southern Hemisphere outing in Melbourne. One of Jamie’s old kitchen buddies, local boy and fellow River Cafe alum Tobie Puttock, is running the show, but it’s the restaurant’s management that has caught the headlines most recently by banning one of the city’s veteran restaurant critics—before his first bite of antipasto. After being refused entry, the Herald-Sun’s Stephen Downes responded by calling the restaurateurs "gutless" on his personal blog for "not having the courage even to run the risk of a fair and honest review that might be unfavourable." Critic John Lethlean, from The Age, got in but wasn’t exactly thrilled.

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