In a large mixing bowl place 1/4 pound sweet butter, 2 tablespoons granulated sugar and 3 unbeaten egg whites. Add enough white wine to obtain a liquid paste thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Using a wire whisk, beat the mixture briskly until it is smooth and free of lumps. Fashion a horn of kitchen paper, leaving an opening about the size of a large wooden match. Fill this improvised pastry bag with batter, and using a circular movement, squeeze out rings of the paste into a deep hot fat (375° F.). These will puff up upon contact with the hot fat. Let the twists cook until they are a soft golden color; then lift out with a skimmer, and arrange upon a hot platter which has been covered with a fancifully folded napkin. Dust with powdered sugar mixed with a little ground nutmeg, and serve with your choice of fresh, crushed, berries, frozen berries, whipped cream, or a good dessert sauce.
This exclusive recipe is pulled directly from Gourmet's archive. It has not been re-tested by our food editors since it was published in the magazine, but it's a pretty good indication of the kinds of things we once cooked—and ate—with great pleasure.