Galatopita, or milk pie, has a crisp phyllo crust and a dense, satisfying custard filling made with semolina flour. It is among the dairy specialties of Epirus and Thessaly; we like this version from Ioannina....

This Greece is a place of mountains and fir trees, where the food runs to meat-based stews and leek and celery pie.

An American living in Athens takes us on a food lover’s tour of her adopted city and rediscovers its Greek soul.