Politics of the Plate: A Farm Bill Update

07.23.07

For the first time ever, the version of the Farm Bill that passed the House Agriculture Committee last week will, if approved by the full House (probably later this month) and Senate, contain funding for the fruit and vegetable industry. It's a pittance—$1.5 billion over five years versus the $12 to $25 billion doled out to growers of big commodity crops such as corn, wheat, soybeans, cotton, and rice per year —but it's a start. According to the San Francisco Chronicle some of the new money will flow to organic research, inclusion of more fruits and vegetables in school lunch programs, promotion of farmers markets, and environmental programs. There was another morsel of good news in the Bill—maybe. The new law allows for full implementation of mandatory country of origin labeling for meat. I say maybe because the last Farm Bill, passed in 2002, also called for such labeling, but the powerful meat packing lobby, whose members don't want consumers to know where their beef and pork was raised, has managed to block the rule from taking effect. (Here's an earlier post on that debacle.) And of course, this being politics, there's one giant loophole. Even if the bill does pass, ground meats will be able to get by with labels bearing the names of countries they might have come from. Kind of scary. I'll stick to buying a piece of chuck and whirring it for a few seconds in the food processor. Tastes better, and if Congress stands up to big meat this time, at least I'll know where it comes from.

A Chile Reception

Al Gore's one of those guys who can never catch a break. Last week the Daily Telegraph implied that he was being hypocritical after Chilean sea bass (Horrors!) was served at the born-again eco-warrior's daughter's wedding reception. Organizations such as Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch put the seriously overfished species (also called Patagonian toothfish) at the very top of their lists of fish to avoid. But there is a catch. One small toothfish fishery, based on the island of South Georgia, is managed in such an ecologically sound manner that it has earned the approval of the Marine Stewardship Council, the most respected certifier of environmentally sustainable seafood in the world. (Here's a pdf listing all of the MSC-approved fisheries.) The approved fish was served at the Gore nuptials. I can understand the newspaper's confusion. Friends frequently come to me and say that they are surprised to find toothfish in places like Whole Foods Market and restaurants that have a strong conservation ethic. Should they buy it? Technically, if you are positive that the fish is from South Georgia and it bears the MSC label, it's fine. But there is still one big problem: more than half the Chilean sea bass caught is taken illegally. Because of the element of uncertainty (Is that filet really from South Georgia?), I'll take Seafood Watch's advice and avoid all Chilean sea bass until the murky waters surrounding illicit catches clear. There are plenty of other, better tasting fish in the sea.

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