Miles of sugarcane fields fly by as we drive to Avery Island, a journey punctuated only by glimpses of sagging stilted houses that have seen more than their fair share of hurricane winds and flooding. It is the middle of nowhere, and yet, it just may be the center of the universe for lovers of hot spice. For here, some 30 miles south of Lafayette and 140 west of New Orleans, is where Tabasco sauce is born.
Last August, we traveled to this coastal marshland in south-central Louisiana for the explicit purpose of discovering how peppers, salt, and vinegar are combined to become a favorite accompaniment to eggs, jambalaya, and anything that might benefit from a kick of heat.
On a barometrically oppressive Saturday afternoon, we made our way to the 2,200-acre salt dome (a massive underground salt deposit) to see how that hot sauce is made. On the way, we are thankful for the rental car's air conditioning and mindful that we leave nothing on the dashboard, lest it melt in the Gulf sun.
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Heat and humidity are as important to the aging process of Tabasco as they are to the aging of bourbon in Kentucky. The barrels are covered with salt—still mined, now by Cargill, from the salt dome underground—and a small one-way valve allows carbon dioxide to escape from the slowly fermenting pepper mash. PHOTO: Sara Bonisteel |
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