Winter Feasting at Essex Farm

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As we sit down to eat together, it occurs to me, not for the first time, that I’m more of a hedonist than an orthodox locavore. If winter food weren’t such a pleasure, from the preparation to the plate, I’d probably raid the supermarket for those little heads of butter lettuce from South America, eat them alone, and sneak the telltale plastic clamshells out in the trash. The truth is, the food we eat in winter is full of the energy of those long, sunny, hardworking days on the other side of the calendar, and winter gives us time, in relative abundance, to savor it.

Kristin Kimball is the author of The Dirty Life: A Memoir of Farming, Food, and Love and a frequent contributor to Gourmet Live. Her most recent article was Three Things Every Ethical Eater Needs to Know Now. Learn more about Essex Farm at

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