Few are familiar with the cuisine of Henan, a central province considered the birthplace of Chinese civilization. The region's numerous lakes offer an abundant supply of freshwater products, and the subtropical climate and fertile acreage yield many succulent vegetables. At Hehe Xiang, all ingredients are shipped in daily from Henan, ensuring freshness and top quality. Some highlights of my meal were farm-raised eggs scrambled with “smoking hot rocks,” tender-cooked octopus served with wasabi, silky pumpkin soup, and slivers of pressed lamb loaf, a terrinelike delicacy I'd never before encountered, sliced wafer-thin and dipped in a sesame-cilantro dressing. My experience there was extraordinary. Dining with friends who are regulars—renowned painter, sculptor, and designer Shao Fan and wife Anna Liuli—we ordered one dish, then the kitchen kept sending out exceptional courses until we cried “uncle” and ordered them to stop. Hours later, I was stuffed but deeply impressed. The meal, with just a little wine, came to about $100 per person. Ouch! Despite the cost, I must go back on my next trip!
But perhaps my most charming discovery in Beijing was Susu, a newly opened Vietnamese restaurant concealed at the end of a hutong (alley), a stone's throw from the National Art Museum. This lovely eatery with its spare but appealing contemporary decor and courtyard terrace is the creation of husband-and-wife team Amy Li and Jonathan Ansfield, in tandem with the Vietnamese friend who inspired the venture, Kim Yen Nguyen Fiske. Chefs from Ho Chi Minh City prepare a combination of traditional specialties like phở, fresh and deep-fried spring rolls, and Cha Ca La Vong, a Hanoi classic starring turmeric-flavored fish fillets covered with fresh dill and scallions and grilled at the table. The flavors are fresh and light, a refreshing departure from the heaviness of northern-style Chinese dishes. The full bar offers inventive cocktails and a solid selection of wine.
So there you have it, some of my favorite recent discoveries, plus a classic street-food market and a Maison for good measure. Just make certain that you arrive in Beijing with an open mind and a ravenous appetite.
Nina Simonds is one of the United States' foremost authorities on Asian food and culture. Her new book, Simple Asian Meals: Irresistibly Satisfying and Healthy Dishes for the Busy Cook, has just been published. Her previous feature for Gourmet Live was a visual guide to Asian noodles. Learn more about Simonds and watch her videos at SpicesOfLife.com.
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