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Food + Cooking

My Day on a Plate: Laurent Gras

08.17.09
When the chef of Chicago’s L20 gets on his bike for a weekly 90-mile ride, he leaves his most outré creations–fake asparagus, tomato film—in the dust. For Laurent Gras, it’s a high-speed escape fuelled by no-nonsense carbohydrates, strong espresso, some PowerBar gels, and his relentless drive.
laurent

Let me start at 12 am, since that was the very beginning of my day off, which is always a little more interesting than my regular day here at L20. I’m a cyclist and I usually ride for five to six hours on my day off. Before I go to bed the night before, I eat a lot of carbohydrates. So I had a homemade pasta salad that was small elbow macaroni with canned tuna, carrots, green onions, and mayonnaise. My wife did all the cooking, which is usually what happens when I’m home. I also had 500 grams of Greek yogurt with fresh raspberries and sugar, so I had about 1,000 grams of food, as well as some Naked juice–half a bottle of Blue Machine.

I went to bed at 1 in the morning and I was up at 8 am. I had two Intelligentsia Black Cat espressos with steamed milk. We have a very nice small espresso machine at home, a Pasquini. Then at 10 o’clock I had my breakfast: one more espresso with steamed milk and a sandwich of challah bread with prosciutto. We get our prosciutto from Whole Foods; it’s nothing special, but it’s good and it’s very convenient.

At 10:30 I’m on the bike—I ride a Cervelo S3—and I’m usually there until about 3:30. I like to go northwest out of Chicago and I do 90 to 100 miles; that’s pretty average for me. I go out past Evanston and pick up roads that don’t have so much traffic on them. I do still have a little pain from my bike accident last Labor Day, but I’m pretty well recovered now. On the bike, I have two PowerBar gels and one bottle of First Endurance electrolyte fuel system drink. That’s what I start with, and then I buy three bottles of Gatorade on the road. The color is usually orange, so I guess it’s supposed to be orange Gatorade, but I’m not always so sure. Next I have a First Endurance Liquid Shot–it’s 400 calories–that you drink like a gel, and about a quart of water, and that’s it… oh, one banana. I burn about 3,500 calories during the ride. I grew up cycling on the hills in Monaco and I really love climbing, but there aren’t many places to climb out here in the Midwest. It’s all flat.

After I got home, about 4pm, I had lunch with my wife. I had a Spanish torta with eggs and potato, oven-roasted white asparagus with tomato and olive oil, some prosciutto again, cherry clafoutis, some water, and an Emergen-C vitamin drink. Then we went up to our roof deck and I had a Coke Zero. We’re in Old Town, pretty much the center of Chicago, just a little north of downtown, only three blocks from Lake Michigan. It’s a great place to be. At the restaurant, I usually have lunch at 4, too, but it’s a staff meal, and if I’m hungry the rest of the time I’ll just grab some fruit or bread or whatever’s quick.

So at 6, I had my PM snack, which was… leftover torta and asparagus. I also had half a container of Greek yogurt with strawberries. At 8, we had dinner, beginning with a green Boston lettuce salad–just green lettuce–along with a bottle of Domaine Baron de Rothschild Los Vascos Rosé and some delivery pizza from Nonna’s Italian Pizzeria. One was pepperoni and one was cheese only. It was thin-crust pizza, which is hard to find here. It’s a little bit lighter and I prefer it to Chicago style. Then I had fresh cherries, and that was it for the whole day. I don’t like to eat late at night unless I’m doing a bike ride, so no late-night snacks. It was a very simple day, and that’s usually how we eat at home. Every once in a while we’ll go out to a restaurant, not so much for the food, but just so my wife and I can be together. We do that once or twice a month. We went to Table Fifty-Two a couple of weeks ago. And that was very, very nice.