Testing for Perfection: Tortillas

September 2007

Granted, you never eat them by themselves, but we think tortillas should still bring a little something all their own to the table. We tore off bites of 18 tortillas and tasted them dry ("Should we cleanse the palate with something spicy?" one tester wondered aloud). Listed are corn and flour tortillas in order of our preference.

Corn

  1. 365 Organic: The only golden-hued tortillas of the group, this entry from Whole Foods tasted robustly of corn and had just the right chew.
  2. Goya: Though it was a little dry, its nice balance of sweet, sour, and salty with a clear corn aroma won testers over.
  3. Baja: Some liked its corn flavor, but others found it unpleasantly sour and slightly leathery.
  4. Pepito: Bland-that is, blander than most-and gluey, with a slightly off aftertaste.
  5. Mission: With an acidic scent and not much flavor, these tortillas also fell apart too easily.
  6. Piaxtla: Soapy and gummy, with a lingering artificial flavor.

Flour

  1. Trader Joe's: A clean, toasty flavor and a balanced tender-chewy texture; these are the ideal flour tortillas.
  2. Old El Paso: Another testers' favorite, these thin tortillas had a pleasant touch of sourness.
  3. Mi Pueblito: Soft and wheaty, though some testers thought they needed salt.
  4. Trader Joe's Handmade: Thymelike herbal undertones pleased many testers but turned off a few.
  5. 365 Organic: A nice, gentle saltiness and good flake.
  6. Mission Restaurant Style: Quite different from the rest, with a bready thickness; but they tasted homemade.
  7. Pepito: A springy texture and subtle wheat flavor.
  8. Festida 6-inch: These doughy tortillas tasted strangely of yeast.
  9. Mission: A touch of sweetness made almost all the testers think of white bread-Pepperidge Farm and Wonder Bread, to be precise.
  10. Mexican Original 10-inch: Too tough, and recalled plastic in the mouth.
  11. Goya: These dry tortillas faintly suggested the dull nonflavor of shortening.
  12. Festida 12-inch: These cardboardlike tortillas turned off all testers—"They're Band-Aid-y," noted one.
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