Cornering the Market? Well, Not Exactly


“Is it true?” I asked. I’d just read on Grub Street that if you wanted a taste of Indian mangoes—intense and complex in flavor and aroma, they’re arguably the worlds finest and unavailable in this country until this spring—the only way to get one was to eat at Tabla, where chef Floyd Cardoz was giving them away with dessert. We are great pals (full disclosure: I co-authored his cookbook), and since I’d heard about these damn mangoes from him for years, the least he could do was send a few my way. I could hear him grinning over the phone. “Not really,” he said. “The Indian consulate sent me a whole bunch of them, but you can find them at Indian markets in Jackson Heights or Edison, New Jersey.” The quality of the ones at Tabla are a little better, Floyd admitted, because they had been sent by air rather than by ship, but still—a field trip to Queens is the next best thing.

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