Japan is on a roll against rolls…named California, Philadelphia, and New Jersey (the latter a personal favorite from a restaurant in Manhattan). The country's most famous food—sushi—has become so popular
around the world that it no longer resembles the real thing, according to the
Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO), which has decided to take action. In
its 2007 guidebook to Paris, it lists only 50 "approved" restaurants
serving authentic Japanese food out of 600 reputedly Japanese restaurants
recently inspected by JETRO (90 percent of which, it says, are owned by Chinese).
London may be the next city on the list. And the U.S. won't be far behind: Of
particular irritation is the California roll, which was born in L.A. but has been "reverse imported" back to Japan.
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