Times are tough for cafés in France: In 1960, there were about 200,000 of them; today only 41,000 survive. As if the recession and a changing lifestyle (which favors fast-food over a leisurely lunch) weren’t bad enough, Paris cafés, specifically those along the busy Rue Montorgeuil, near Les Halles, face another problem—they’re too popular. In this densely packed part of town, where the outdoor terrasses are actually thriving, the city recently decided that outdoor seating is now taking up too much space on the sidewalk, forcing pedestrians into the street. Although officials have since backed off an order to curb sidewalk tables, café owners remain wary.
One way or another, though, the collapse of Parisian café life continues unabated, with some surprising exceptions. Starbucks, for example, has nearly 40 outlets in Paris and is planning six more this year, including one across the street from the fabled Moulin Rouge. Before you blame Americans, understand that the French love Starbucks in the same contrarian way they love McDonald’s and Jerry Lewis, and, unlike most cafés, Starbucks has comfortable chairs, clean bathrooms, and free wi-fi. Parisians today work the same long hours as New Yorkers and are just as likely to pick up a sandwich to eat at their desks.
Sertl says: There’s bad news from Britain, too, where The Guardian says pubs are closing at the rate of five per day. Meanwhile a group called The Dead Pub Society reports on the damage already done.