What was your most memorable trip this
year? I'm sure it was trawling the street stalls of Bangkok with Michelin-starred Thai chef David Thompson. Since Thompson
has a knack for pushing you to far exceed your Recommended Daily Allowance
of Mekong rum, my recollection is positive but somewhat impressionistic.
Your most memorable meal (not necessarily
on the same trip)? The durian and sweet coconut rice from a
stall in Bangkok. The garnish of tiny dried
shrimp was fascinating, particularly in light of the interest many Western
chefs now have in using salty elements in their desserts. (Shrimp creme brulee
is surely just around the corner.)
What was the most exciting thing that
happened close to home? The new wave of wine bars in Sydney. They've got enough style, panache, and edge—not to mention brilliant wines
sourced everywhere from southern Austria to South America to South Australia
and back again—to overcome the tacky connotations of the wine-bar concept.
Did you stay in, or visit, a hotel that
particularly wowed you? The Hotel du Palais in Biarritz recalls the days when the likes of Edward VII, Churchill, Chaplin,
and Cocteau used to stay there. The crash of the waves right outside its Belle
Epoque windows, and the opportunity to check out the surf while snacking on
local foie gras en brioche with poached eggs, truffles, and asparagus, is a
rare and beautiful thing.
What place did you find overrated or
disappointing? I'm still waiting for something decent to eat in
Oxford (Oxford itself, that is. Le Manoir doesn't count). Bad
stuff right down to the kebab vans, even by British standards.
What was your worst (or funniest) travel
experience? Being $80 over my baggage limit, purely in foie
gras and vintage sardines, when leaving France had a certain
surreal quality.
2007: RING IN THE NEW

Is there a restaurant or a chef whom everyone is watching? The new complex at Melbourne's Crown Towers hotel is an attempt to pick up on the buzz of Las Vegas's casino dining, and there's some serious money being spent to make it a reality. The fortunes of Neil Perry's new Rockpool there are being closely watched, while the opening of Australia's first Nobu, also on the site and slated to open midyear, has everybody talking.
What trips do you have planned for 2007? I've already got too many restaurants in mind and not enough time for the annual London restaurant pilgrimage, and it seems the second I get on a flight to leave Spain, six new must-visit gastro-temples spring up. I've been entranced by tales of great eating in Luang Prabang, Costa Rica, and Sardinia. Patagonia beckons, as ever.
Where do you most want to go in the world that is still a dream away? The Cuban dilemma is still there: desperately want to go, can't bear the thought of such dreadful food.
Where wouldn't you go even if you won an all-expenses-paid, first-class trip? I'm not rushing back to Alice Springs.