This refreshing aperitif, a brainchild of David Arnold of the French Culinary Institute, bathes crisp matchsticks of Pink Lady apple with soju (a Korean spirit).
Flameado! Igniting the tequila in the skillet not only impresses onlookers—it also burns off the alcohol, leaving behind nothing but the spirit's famous bite.
I heard wistfulness in his voice, as if he too longed for a slug of the good stuff, as if a little brown whiskey was what awaited him, after quitting the white-on-white confines of Vongerichten-land.