Imagine a pastry cobbled together from age-old recipes of French, Viennese, Russian and Polish Jews. A comforting, crumbly cookie filled with sweet, tart, life-affirming indulgence....
There’s character to spare in this layered flatbread, called msemmen in Arabic. The dough is rubbed with spiced oil, rolled into a spiral, flattened, and then cooked on a griddle, for a flakiness that’s surprisingly substantial....