Belgians go through an average of 250 pounds of potatoes a year—per person—and they’re passionate (some would say vehement) about the merits of their favorite friterie or, in Flemish, frituur. But Friterie Antoine gets a thumbs-up from almost everybody. It’s a little pavilion in the corner of a parking lot in the center of Brussels with red granite counters and wrought-iron frites holders bolted to the walls. This place is not only at the top of the heap, but it’s also a rare exception to the rule that framed newspaper photos of famous patrons (Bill Clinton and Mick Jagger, among others) mean second-rate food. Most Belgians eat their frites with mayonnaise, but the chef here shows off with a sauce menu running from Brazil (ketchup with pineapple) and Andalouse (tomato paste, chopped onion, lemon juice, red pepper, and mayonnaise) to Chinoise Piquante and classics like carbonnade (Flemish beer sauce).
Like the citizens of this frites-mad city, we have our own favorite stand.
