Cambridge: Ten Tables

This newbie, the second outpost of a Jamaica Plain restaurant by the same name, has a few more tables (17, to be exact) but the same winning concept: intimate, affordable fine dining done right. The menu’s basic conceit is market-driven French, and plates are remarkably crafted, especially considering the prices. The bold, expressive flavors of the spicy squid with green garlic, cardoons, gigantic beans, and crispy olives appetizer are expertly balanced. Same goes for the housemade merguez sausage. And while skillet-roasted chicken with turnip purée and braised red cabbage may sound ho-hum, it’s actually exemplary of dexterous cooking technique and seasoning perfection (I mean dead-on…in every dish I tried). This is truly nice food. Plus the vibe at this new locale is super chill, and you’ll definitely feel that you’re being well cared for. If there’s one fault here, it’s that snagging a reservation is already becoming a challenge.

Ten Tables 5 Craigie Circle, Cambridge, MA (617-576-5444; tentables.net)