When I wandered into
Insieme for lunch the other day, I wasn’t looking for a bargain. But spooning up every drop of a dense and golden chicken soup filled with vegetables and little chicken
polpettine, I was ready to declare it the best $10 deal in town. Then a half-order of Marco Canora’s extraordinary lasagne ($11) arrived, and I tried to think of the last time I’d had so much good food for so little money. My guest, happy with his pear and pecorino salad and even happier with the little pillows of pasta filled with braised short ribs, was equally amazed. The service is soothing, the wine list always fascinating, and although there may be a better deal for a business lunch in midtown Manhattan, I haven’t found it.
Insieme 777 7th Ave. (at 51st Street), New York City (212-582-1310; restaurantinsieme.com)
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