New York City: Apiary

It’s a silly name. (As a friend said, “I know it’s about bees, but it sounds like a place to keep apes.”) The Ligne Roset furniture is a little too self-consciously sleek for the space. Even more damning, the menu reads like that of every other “local, seasonal” restaurant around town. So you might say Apiary has three strikes against it. But then there’s Scott Bryan, who took over as executive chef two months ago. Just as he did in his years at Veritas, Bryan demonstrates why talent makes a difference in the kitchen. The combination of rare duck breast, celery root purée, and lentils, for example, once again seems revelatory—the deep, rich flavors are perfectly balanced, leading you on greedily from bite to bite. This just might be the place to remember why you liked all these dishes so much in the first place.

Apiary 60 Third Ave., New York City (212-254-0888; apiarynyc.com)