Serves4
                    
                
                
                    
                        
                            - Active Time:20 min
- Start to Finish:50 min
 
            
                
                    
                    Moderately priced avruga caviar (smoked herring roe from Spain) gives cooks a chance to throw caution to the wind and experiment. Stephen Harris purées it into a slate-gray emulsion, bringing visual drama and a smoky flavor to delicate salmon. Fleur de sel is a good substitute for his house-made sea salt.
                
            
            
                
                
                
    
      
          
          
          
              
              
              
          
          
          
          
          
              
              
              January 2007
            
          
          
      
  
                
                
            
            
            
            
            
                
            
            
            
                
                    
                    
                    
                        
                            
                            
                            
                                
                                    
                                        - 
                                            1/2
                                            tablespoon
                                            unsalted butter, softened
                                            
                                        
- 
                                            1/2
                                            teaspoon
                                            fleur de sel plus additional to taste
                                            
                                        
- 
                                            4
                                            
                                            (6-oz) pieces center-cut salmon fillet (about 1 inch thick)
                                            
                                        
- 
                                            1/4
                                            cup
                                            crème fraîche
                                            
                                        
- 
                                            2
                                            tablespoons
                                            hot water
                                            
                                        
- 
                                            2
                                            tablespoons
                                            avruga caviar (from a 120-g jar)
                                            
                                        
- 
                                            2
                                            teaspoons
                                            olive oil
                                            
                                        
- 
                                            5
                                            oz
                                            baby arugula (7 cups loosely packed)
                                            
                                        
- 
                                            5
                                            oz
                                            mesclun (mixed baby salad greens; 7 cups loosely packed)
                                            
                                        
- 
                                            4
                                            
                                            small lime wedges
                                            
                                        
- 
                                            1/2
                                            teaspoon
                                            fresh lime juice
                                            
                                        
 
                    
                 
            
            
            
            
            
            
            
            
                
                    
                    
                    
                        
                            
                                
                                
                                
                                    
                                        - 
                                            
                                            Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 250°F.  
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                                            Spread butter over bottom of a 13- by 9-inch baking dish and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon fleur de sel. Put salmon, skin sides down, in dish and bake, uncovered, until just cooked through, 30 to 35 minutes.  
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                                            About 10 minutes before salmon is done, put crème fraîche in a 1- to 1 1/2-quart heavy saucepan and heat over low heat, stirring occasionally, until just melted. Transfer to a blender along with water and caviar and purée into a very smooth emulsion. Return to saucepan and keep warm, uncovered, over very low heat, stirring occasionally. Thin sauce slightly with a little additional hot water if too thick.  
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                                            Just before salmon is done baking, heat oil in a 12-inch skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then add greens in 3 batches, stirring and turning with tongs until greens are slightly wilted before adding each new batch, and continue to cook, stirring, until completely wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Push greens to one side of skillet and pour off liquid (discarding it). Divide greens among 4 plates. Top greens with salmon and season lightly with fleur de sel, then squeeze some of lime juice from wedges over salmon. Stir 1/2 teaspoon lime juice into sauce and spoon onto plates.