Serves6
                    
                
                
                    
                        
                            - Active Time:45 min
 
                        
                            - Start to Finish:2 1/2 hr
 
                        
                    
                
             
            
            
                
                
                
    
      
          
          
          
              
              
              
          
          
          
          
          
              
              
              April 2002
            
          
          
      
  
                
                
            
            
            
                Which is smoother or more silken—the soup itself or the tender Parmesan custards? The question will linger long after the last spoonful.
            
            
            
            
            
                
                    
                    
                    
                        
                            For custards
                            
                            
                                
                                    
                                        - 
                                            2 1/2
                                            oz
                                            Parmigiano-Reggiano, coarsely grated (1 1/4 cups)
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            1
                                            cup
                                            heavy cream
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            1/2
                                            cup
                                            whole milk
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            1
                                            
                                            whole large egg
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            2
                                            
                                            large egg yolks
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            1/8
                                            teaspoon
                                            salt
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            Pinch
                                            
                                            of white pepper
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                
                            
                         
                    
                        
                            For soup
                            
                            
                                
                                    
                                        - 
                                            1
                                            
                                            large leek (white and pale green parts only), finely chopped (1 1/4 cups)
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            1/2
                                            cup
                                            finely chopped shallot
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            1/4
                                            teaspoon
                                            black pepper
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            3/4
                                            teaspoon
                                            salt
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            2
                                            tablespoons
                                            unsalted butter
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            2 1/2
                                            lb
                                            asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            3 1/2
                                            cups
                                            low-sodium chicken broth
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            1 1/2
                                            cups
                                            water
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            1/4
                                            cup
                                            heavy cream
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                
                            
                         
                    
                 
            
            
            
            
            
                
            
            
            
            
                
                    
                    
                    
                        
                            
                                Make custards:
                                
                                
                                    
                                        - 
                                            
                                            
Bring cheese, cream, and milk just to a boil in a small heavy saucepan over moderate heat, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and steep, covered, 30 minutes.
                                         
                                    
                                        - 
                                            
                                            
Preheat oven to 300ºF.
                                         
                                    
                                        - 
                                            
                                            
Pour steeped cream through a very fine sieve into a bowl, pressing lightly on cheese solids and discarding them. Whisk together whole egg, yolks, salt, and white pepper in another bowl, then add steeped cream in a stream, whisking until smooth. Divide among well-buttered ramekins.
                                         
                                    
                                        - 
                                            
                                            
Set ramekins in a baking pan and 
bake in a hot water bath in middle of oven until centers of custards are completely set, 40 to 45 minutes. Transfer ramekins to a rack and cool 5 minutes (do not allow to cool longer, or custards will stick to ramekins).
 
                                         
                                    
                                
                             
                        
                            
                                Make soup while cream steeps and custards bake:
                                
                                
                                    
                                        - 
                                            
                                            
Wash chopped leek in a bowl of cold water, then lift out and drain well. Cook leek, shallot, pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in butter in a 4- to 6-quart heavy pot over moderately low heat, stirring, until leek is softened, about 3 minutes. Add asparagus, broth, and water and simmer, covered, until asparagus is just tender, 10 to 12 minutes. After 2 to 4 minutes, remove 6 asparagus tips, halve lengthwise and reserve for garnish.
                                         
                                    
                                        - 
                                            
                                            
Purée soup in batches in a blender until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids). Transfer to a large bowl, then pour through a sieve into cleaned pot. Stir in cream, remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste and heat over moderately low heat until hot.
                                         
                                    
                                
                             
                        
                            
                                Serve soup with custards:
                                
                                
                                    
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Working with 1 custard at a time, run a thin knife around edge of each to loosen it, then invert a soup bowl over ramekin and invert custard into bowl. Repeat with remaining custards. Ladle soup around custards and garnish with reserved asparagus tips and parmesan curls.
                                         
                                    
                                
                             
                        
                    
                    Cooks' note: Soup can be made 1 day ahead. Cool, uncovered, then chill, covered.