Serves4
                    
                
                
                    
                        
                            - Active time:2 hr
 
                        
                            - Start to finish:2 1/2 hr
 
                        
                    
                
             
            
            
                
                
                
    
      
          
          
          
              
              
              
          
          
          
          
          
              
              
              August 2001
            
          
          
      
  
                
                
            
            
            
                Still life with fruit: In this variation on the Indonesian concoction chendol, we’ve replaced the traditional green pea flour “worms” with tapioca.
Made from yuca (pronounced “YOO-ca”), pearl tapioca can be found at Asian markets and specialty foods shops.
            
            
            
            
            
                
                    
                    
                    
                        
                            
                            
                            
                                
                                    
                                        - 
                                            8 1/4
                                            cups
                                            water
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            2/3
                                            cup
                                            large (1/8- to 1/4-inch) pearl tapioca (not quick-cooking)
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            1/2
                                            cup
                                            grated or crumbled dark palm sugar (4 oz)*
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            2
                                            
                                            (13- to 14-oz) cans unsweetened coconut milk (do not shake)
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            2
                                            
                                            firm-ripe mangoes (1 1/2 lb total), peeled, pitted, and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            1
                                            lb
                                            firm-ripe papaya (preferably red), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            1/2
                                            
                                            pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                        - 
                                            2
                                            cups
                                            shaved ice
                                            
                                        
 
                                    
                                
                            
                         
                    
                 
            
            
            
            
            
                
                    
                        - 
                            
                                
Garnish:
                            
                            fresh coconut shavings, toasted
                         
                    
                        - 
                            
                                
Special equipment:
                            
                            an ice shaver, preferably manual
                         
                    
                
            
            
            
            
                
                    
                    
                    
                        
                            
                                
                                
                                
                                    
                                        - 
                                            
                                            
Bring 8 cups water to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan and add tapioca, stirring constantly. Gently boil, stirring occasionally, until tapioca is almost completely translucent, 40 minutes to 1 1/2 hours, depending on size of tapioca.
                                         
                                    
                                        - 
                                            
                                            
Remove from heat and let tapioca stand, covered, until completely translucent, 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours, depending on size.
                                         
                                    
                                        - 
                                            
                                            
While tapioca is standing, bring sugar, a pinch of salt, and remaining 1/4 cup water to a simmer in a small heavy saucepan, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Simmer syrup until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes.
                                         
                                    
                                        - 
                                            
                                            
Scoop out 3/4 cup (total) of thick layer of coconut cream from tops of cans (reserving remainder for another use) and whisk into syrup until combined well. Chill syrup until cold, about 1 hour.
                                         
                                    
                                        - 
                                            
                                            
Add 3 cups cold water to translucent tapioca, then drain in a sieve. Transfer tapioca to a large bowl filled halfway with cold water, swirl, and then drain in sieve. (This removes excess starch.)
                                         
                                    
                                        - 
                                            
                                            
Spoon 3 tablespoons syrup into each of 4 glasses (there will be some left over), then divide fruit and tapioca among them. Top with shaved ice.
                                         
                                    
                                
                             
                        
                    
                    Cooks’ notes: - Small pearl tapioca may be substituted for large, but the cooking time must be reduced to about 5 minutes boiling time and 15 minutes standing time.
  - For this recipe, we prefer one of the following brands of coconut milk because the thin liquid and the creamlike layer are distinctly separated: A Taste of Thai, Mount Tai, Thai Kitchen, or Ka-Me.
  - Syrup can be made 3 days ahead and chilled, covered.
 
*Available at Asian markets and Uwajimaya (800-889-1928).