August 1999
            
          
          
      
  
                
                
            
            
            
                These messy but irresistible ears of corn coated with cheese are a popular street snack in Mexico. For our recipe we used cotija, a crumbly, pungent, aged-curd cheese that can range in consistency from soft to very hard, depending on the brand. (We made ours with Los Fortales, a hard variety available at cheese shops and some specialty foods shops.) You can, however, substitute feta, which is more widely available.
            
            
            
            
            
                
                    
                    
                    
                        
                            
                            
                            
                                
                                    
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                                            4
                                            
                                            earns of corn in the husk
                                            
                                        
- 
                                            1/4
                                            cup
                                            mayonnaise
                                            
                                        
- 
                                            1/8
                                            teaspoon
                                            cayenne, or to taste
                                            
                                        
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                                            3/4
                                            cup
                                            shredded cotija or feta
                                            
                                        
 
                    
                 
            
            
            
            
            
                
                    
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                                Accompaniments:lime wedges  
                    
                    
                    
                        
                            
                                
                                
                                
                                    
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                                            Prepare grill.  
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                                            Soak corn in husks in cold water 10 minutes. Drain corn and grill on a rack set 5 to 6 inches over glowing coals until husks are charred, about 10 minutes. Shuck corn and grill until kernels are browned in spots, about 10 minutes. 
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                                            While corn is grilling, in a small bowl whisk together mayonnaise and cayenne. Using the small teardrop-shaped holes on a four-sided grater grate cotija. 
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                                            Brush mayonnaise mixture onto hot corn and sprinkle with cojita. 
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                                            Serve corn on the cob with lime wedges.