Growing peaches in western Colorado is a “high-risk game,” says farmer Greg Walcher, who, with his wife, Diana, has been in the game for years. High-risk and just plain high. At elevations of 4,700 to 6,850 feet, peach farms here are the highest in the country, perched precariously between glory and disaster. The spring frosts of this rugged land can destroy a crop in a heartbeat. And yet for about 100 years a group of hearty orchardists have been farming here. Why? Because this is a gamble that pays off—when it does—with peaches so good they fetch three times the average wholesale price of their more earthbound siblings.
Grand Junction, the largest city in western Colorado, sits in the broad Grand Valley, rimmed by spectacular cliffs and surrounded by desert scrublands. From Fruita to Fruitdale the valley is dotted with houses that would fit easily into any suburb. But at the eastern end, threaded by the narrow Colorado River, lies the green carpet of Palisade, and it is here you find the state’s top-producing orchards—1,500 acres that produce three quarters of the state’s peaches. (East, over the Grand Mesa, lie the second-largest growing areas of Hotchkiss and Paonia.)
Palisade itself is sprinkled with fruit stands; even private homes here have signs in their front yards advertising “Tree-Ripened Peaches.” On a 90-degree day in August, the air is sweet with their aroma.
The days may be hot here, but Colorado nights are cooler than those in California’s Central Valley, home to most of the nation’s peach crop. This allows the trees to respire, producing fruits with higher sugar, acids, and flavor. The dry climate (average rainfall around here is just eight inches a year) helps, too, keeping the trees healthy and the fruit’s flavor intense.
“Our peaches thrive on our hot days and cool nights,” Diana Walcher says as she walks the rows of the 15-acre orchard that she and Greg own. The majestic striated 6,765-foot cliffs of Mount Garfield rise up behind her.
To prove her point, Diana selects two velvety orbs so soft they show slight thumbprints when picked, and cuts samples: first a fragrant Glohaven, with a rich, classically balanced flavor, then a Redglobe, which is sweeter, with lower acidity.
In August, the high-risk game gets even riskier, but unless it’s played this way quality is compromised. “We leave the peaches on the tree much longer than anyone else,” says Greg, a fifth-generation Coloradan whose father and grandfather were also peach growers, and who is now running for the area’s seat in Congress. “They’re extremely perishable, so you lose a lot of the crop, but you get more money for them. That’s our strategy.”
After the peaches are picked, the Walchers take another risk: Unlike huge commercial operations, they never expose their fruit to refrigerated storage. Refrigeration makes peaches last longer, says Diana, but ruins the flavor and texture.
It’s not just the fruits but the trees themselves that must be protected from the mountain cold. Peach trees are injured when the temperature falls below minus 12 degrees. This seldom happens in Palisade, which is practically a banana belt compared with the rest of Colorado, but in December of 1963 the temperature fell rapidly and hundreds of thousands of trees were killed. While that was a rare catastrophe, the cold snaps of spring are an almost annual problem.
“We don’t go anywhere during April,” says Brant Harrison, of Kokopelli Produce. He and his wife, Carol, grow 24 acres of organic peaches on a farm they named for the Hopi figure that represents good harvest. The name may seem like wishful thinking during the spring, when temperatures barely below freezing can utterly destroy buds and young fruit. Harrison is awakened several times during the month by a temperature-controlled alarm signaling that it’s time to crank up the sprinklers and propane heaters. Other growers use windmill-like machines to temper the cold air that settles near the ground with warmer air from above.
In his 1951 “orchard hoopie” (a custom-fitted flatbed truck) Brant tools around his new planting at the mouth of the De Beque Canyon, which begins to narrow east of Palisade. Two phenomena occur in Brant’s orchards: Cold air drains downhill, so slightly higher elevations with good airflow are safer from frost than dips and plains. Second, the air travels down the canyon, compressing and warming it to create the celebrated “Million Dollar Breeze” that rescues farmers from devastating frosts.
“Once during a freeze I went to our ranch in the canyon and the leaves on the trees were starting to rustle,” said Brant. “The breeze had begun, and I went back up to the home ranch in Palisade and fifteen minutes later it was fifty degrees.”
Brant tears open an aromatic Suncrest peach, the old-fashioned variety made famous by David Mas Masumoto’s Epitaph for a Peach. Juice sprays everywhere; it is just as sugary and intense as a peach can be.
Although this is a great peach, Suncrest has become a rarity in California because it is too soft for long-distance shipping. But here in Palisade it’s the top variety. No one is breeding new varieties for Colorado conditions, so, in addition to Suncrest, local growers rely on the classics, such as the yellow-fleshed Cresthaven and J.H. Hale, which, shortly after it was introduced, in 1912, was called “one of the sensations of the pomological world.” (Its almost perfectly spherical shape allowed it to be easily packed and shipped.) The top peach varieties grown in Colorado all originated years ago, before size, redness, and firmness became more important than taste. Compared to fruits from California, where growers race to plant the newest models, Colorado peaches are like cars with tail fins.
Peaches aren’t the only crop here. Early growers focused on apples and pears as well, selling them to mining camps and later, when rail transportation arrived, to distant cities. An apple boom fueled by real-estate promoters started in 1895; at its peak, in 1911, this was said to be the richest apple-growing district in the U.S. But after cultivation crashed in the next decade as a result of inexperienced growers, overuse of salty irrigation water, and catastrophic infestations of coddling moth, peaches became the major crop. Then pressure from development, the great freeze of 1963, and competition from California gradually reduced peach plantings as well. But now Americans are becoming more concerned with flavor and are increasingly willing to pay top dollar for tastier fruit. Colorado growers are once again betting on peaches.
Growers run the gamut from Richard Pobirk, who retired from the electronics industry to cultivate almost eight acres of the most luscious peaches you’ve ever tasted, to Charlie Talbott, who ships 5 to 6 million pounds of peaches yearly.
Pobirk’s production is so small that he picks his peaches himself. They are also so good that people drive hundreds of miles—from as far away as Kansas, Nebraska, and Wyoming—just to buy the fruit. And Talbott grows a dozen varieties on orchards that sprawl over 160 acres; his production accounts for about a third of the state’s peach crop.
To get from palisade to paonia, which vies with Hotchkiss as Colorado’s second-largest peach-growing area, you could opt for the quick route, on major highways. But why would you? The drive along the Colorado River, through De Beque Canyon, with its towering sandy bluffs, is spectacular, and it gets better when you ascend to the heights of Grand Mesa, said to be the largest flat-topped mountain in the world. As you climb, everything becomes cooler and greener; poplars come into view, then pines and aspens, and signs for hiking trails and ski areas and lakes (more than 300 of them) pop up. Bears and mountain lions make this forest home, and near the top, at 10,500 feet, marmots bask in the sun by the roadside.
Along the way, near the town of Cedaredge, you pass Red Mountain Ranches, probably the highest commercial fruit farm in the United States (elevation 6,850 feet). Owners Robert and Roxie Morris say that if they tried to grow their fruit any higher not only would it freeze, but later varieties wouldn’t have a long enough season to ripen.
Paonia itself is framed by dramatic 13,000-foot peaks. A sort of Woodstock of the West, it has concerts, art galleries, and restaurants with names like Flying Fork Cafe. In contrast to Palisade, which was settled by Iowans and still has a conservative, midwestern sensibility, Paonia is young, lively, and culturally diverse. The economy is an odd mix of coal and fruit, and although peach acreage is smaller than in Palisade, much of it is organic.
The biggest growers are Kris and Kevin Kropp of First Fruits Organic Farms, intense brothers who have cobbled together many far-flung plantings and now have almost 300 acres, including 40 of peaches.
Their methods are a far cry from the mechanized work of packing houses. Ideally, the fruit is picked ripe and hand-sorted, right in the middle of the orchard, by size. “It’s archaic, but it gets the job done,” says Kevin, who, along with his brother, routinely works 18-hour days.
As he drives his truck to the market in Paonia, moving at a snail’s pace so as not to jostle the peaches, he ponders whether the work is worth it. “I know we’re crazy,” he says. “But what makes it worthwhile is when people taste our peaches and say, ‘That’s to die for.’ ”
The Details
When to Go
Peach season in Palisade runs from mid-July to late September, peaking in August; in Paonia and Cedaredge it’s a week or two later. The 2004 Palisade Peach Festival (palisadepeachfest.com ) will take place August 19 through 21.
Palisade
Staying There: The Orchard House Bed and Breakfast (3573 E1/2 Rd.; 970-464-0529; theorchardhouse.com; from $80) is set in a peach orchard with sweeping views of the Grand Mesa and the Bookcliff Mountains. Vineyards Victorian Bed & Breakfast (398 W. 1st St.; 970-464-4943; vineyards-victorian.com; from $100), is, well, Victorian, but it’s also conveniently close to town.
Eating There: The Palisade Cafe (113 W. 3rd St.; 970-464-0657), open for breakfast and lunch, makes simple, fresh food. Slice O’ Life Bakery (105 W. 3rd St.; 970-464-0577) serves peaches in the form of ice cream, pie, and bread pudding.
Fruit Sources: Walcher Orchards (970-250-5907; walcher orchards.com) sells at the Grand Junction Downtown Farmers Market Festival (Historic Downtown Main St.; Thursdays from 5 p.m., June 17 through September 30) and by mail order ($22.50 plus shipping for seven pounds by FedEx). The owners of Kokopelli Produce (3677 G4/10 Rd.; 970-464-7201) sell from their home and by mail order. Pobirk’s Orchard (3438 C1/2 Rd.; 970-434-7918).
Cedaredge
A local favorite is Ole Bakery Cafe (365 N. Grand Mesa Dr.; 970-856-3366). Red Mountain Ranches (19458 Hwy. 65; 970-856-3803; redmountainranches.com) also does mail order.
Paonia
Staying There: Bross Hotel (312 Onarga Ave.; 970-527-6776; paonia-inn.com; from $100), in a tastefully renovated 1906 brick building, is close to town.
Eating There: Flying Fork Cafe & Bakery (101 3rd St.; 970-527-3203) offers a stylish Italian-inflected menu and fine local wines. Nelle’s (229‚ Grand Ave.; 970-527-3541), a New Age nook, serves breakfast and lunch, with great wraps and sandwiches.
Fruit Sources: You can pick your own organic peaches at JJ Orchards (41194 Lamborn Dr.; 970-527-4322). The farm stand at historic Stahl Orchards (4006 O-90 Dr.; 970-527-3100; stahlorchards.com) displays a bounty of homegrown fruit. The Kropp family of First Fruits Organic Farms (4049 O Rd.; 970-527-6122) sell at their shed (call first), at the Boulder farmers market on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and at the Aspen farmers market on Saturdays. Orchard Valley Farms (15836 Black Bridge Rd.; 970-527-6838; orchardvalleyfarms.com) is a good bet for organic fruit, also by mail order. The Valley Organic Growers Association has a list of members on its Web site (www.vogaco.org/members.shtml). —D.K.
Staying There
Aspen Meadows Resort Airy Bauhaus suites, enveloped by high peaks, on the campus of the Aspen Institute (845 Meadows Rd.; 800-452-4240; aspenmeadows.com; from $165).
Hotel Lenado Homey meets modern in this inn with rough-hewn wooden beds and a cozy breakfast room (200 S. Aspen St.; 800-321-3457; hotellenado.com; from $265).
The Little Nell A classy, clubby Relais & Châteaux at the base of Aspen Mountain. Rooms have thick comforters and gas fireplaces, and a welcoming restaurant, Montagna, serves seasonal American food (675 E. Durant Ave.; 970-920-4600; thelittlenell.com; from $405).
Eating There
Ajax Tavern Celebrity-spotting and burgers at the base of the gondola (685 E. Durant Ave.; 970-920-9333).
Cache Cache Sophisticated bistro food meets its design match indoors and out (205 S. Mill St.; 888-511-3835).
Gusto Ristorante Colorful salads and thin-crust pizzas in a room built for buzz (415 E. Main St.; 970-925-8222).
Matsuhisa Aspen Get your Nobu fix at this outpost in a Victorian house and sip sake in the hip new lounge (303 E. Main St.; 970-544-6628).
Mogador Cutting-edge Moroccan and Spanish food; a big late-night scene (430 E. Hyman Ave.; 970-429-1072).
Pine Creek Cookhouse Regional fish and game go upscale in a log cabin in the woods (970-925-1044).
Piñons High-end, creative American cooking with a glorious view (105 S. Mill St.; 970-920-2021).
Six89 In nearby Carbondale, Mark Fischer gets inventive with dishes like braised veal cheeks with blue cheese agnolotti (689 Main St.; 970-963-6890). Fischer’s Phat Thai offers Bangkok standards in a trendy, loftlike space (343 Main St.; 970-963-7001).
Topper’s Neighborhood joint with a reggae beat and sandwiches, pizzas, and salads to eat in or take out (300 Puppy Smith St.; 970-920-0069).
The Wild Fig Where the action is—along with wonderful Mediterranean-style food (315 E. Hyman Ave.; 970-925-5160).
Woody Creek Tavern Bike to this eccentric dive seven miles out of town for cheap Mexican eats and homemade pies (Woody Creek; 970-923-4585).
Being There
Anderson Ranch Arts Center Workshops in clay, painting, printmaking, and more. June through September (970-923-3181; andersonranch.org).
Aspen Art Museum Showcase for the contemporary—renowned and local (590 N. Mill St.; 970-925-8050; aspenartmuseum.org).
Aspen Farmers Market Colorado-grown produce, arts and crafts, and live music. Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., June through October (E. Hopkins St.).
The Aspen Institute Explore the issues, from Einstein’s theories to global warming (202-736-5800; aspeninstitute.org).
Aspen Music Festival World-class chamber music and orchestral performances and daily master classes. June 22 through August 22 (970-925-9042; aspenmusicfestival.com).
Aspen Santa Fe Ballet A fine local company and modern greats. July 15 through August 18 (970-925-6098; aspensantafeballet.com).
Aspen Theatre in the Park A company that can do Molière as well as Marsha Norman. July 1 through August 29 (970-925-9313; aspentip.org).
Cooking School of Aspen Classes, demos, and a gourmet shop (800-603-6004; cookingschoolofaspen.com).
The Crystal Palace Theatre Restaurant Satirical cabaret theater features (hysterical) topical revues (300 E. Hyman Ave; 970-925-1455; cpalace.net).
The Great Outdoors For bike rentals, try Aspen Velo (465 N. Mill St.; 970-925-1495; aspenvelo.com), and for kayaks, Aspen Kayak School (970-925-4433; aspenkayak.com). Visit Aspen Expeditions (970-927-7625; aspenexpeditions.com) for rock-climbing, mountaineering, and paragliding trips; Blazing Adventures (970-925-5405; blazingadventures.com) for raft, bike, jeep, and hot air balloon excursions; Maroon Bells Outfitters (970-920-4677; maroonbellsaspen.com) for horses and guides; and Aspen Trout Guides (970-925-6775) for fly-fishing trips.
Jazz Aspen Snowmass Two festivals (June and Labor Day weekend), and free concerts from June 23 through August 26 (970-925-8050; jazzaspen.org).
Wheeler Opera House Attend concerts, films, and lectures beneath a starry ceiling (320 E. Hyman Ave.; 970-920-5770; wheeleroperahouse.com).
Shopping There
Aspen Inside Housewarming-gift heaven, from ceramics to stuff for the kids (312 E. Hyman Ave.; 970-544-3611).
Distractions Designer garb from the new generation, such as Zac Posen and Proenza Schouler (465 E. Hopkins Ave.; 970-544-9946).
Explore Booksellers and Bistro Endless rooms crammed with fine reads, and a bistro for soups, salads, and sweets (221 E. Main St.; 970-925-5336).
Gorsuch Ltd. High-end Alpine clothes and housewares (419 E. Cooper Ave.; 970-925-7576).
Henry Béguelin Gorgeous Italian leather shoes, bags, and home accessories (614 E. Cooper Ave.; 970-920-2925).
Les Chefs D’Aspen Vietri plates, sturdy linens, Calphalon pots, and cookbooks (405 S. Hunter St.; 970-925-6217).
Susie’s Ltd. Where Aspen women send last season’s Prada and Armani (623 E. Hopkins St.; 970-920-2376). —Jocelyn Zuckerman and Reenie Kinney