Long, long before my time, in the era of that great nineteenth-century master, Marie-Antoine Carême, desserts played a double role in classical French dinners. They not only provided a magnificent last course, but they served also as the decorations. In fact, only a chef trained in the Carême tradition possessed the skill to produce the towering decorated cakes, the elaborate creations made with spun sugar, and the complicated pyramids of fruit that were a part of every banquet. They were arranged down the center of the table and dramatically illuminated by gold and silver candelabra. Admiring guests viewed the desserts as important works of art; and the cutting and the serving of these confections and fruits became rites.
Our modern table decorations conform, of course, to our simpler way of life. Flower arrangements or fruit bowls have taken over the role previously assigned to sculptured desserts. In today's cuisine, desserts must still please the eye, naturellement, but the first concern is that a dessert complement the other dishes on the menu. And, unless we are planning an elaborate buffet, we consider a single handsome dessert sufficient.
In France, milk, eggs, and cream are the traditional ingredients for desserts, simple or complex. France has always been blessed with generous supplies of dairy foods. Much of our dessert cookery has evolved around the ways in which these foods combine with each other and with other ingredients and how they react to different methods of preparation—boiling, baking, and so on.
When I was preparing desserts as part of my chef's training at the Maison Calondre, I did not realize how soon I would be teaching others to make them. Hardly had I started my first job in the Hotel du Rhin in Paris when I was called upon to help train a young Englishman who had come to France to learn the chef's trade. Then I discovered that we usually had a few English girls working in the kitchen; they had been sent over by aristocratic English families who could not find properly trained assistants for their French chefs. And without the skillful help they needed, these fine chefs could not be persuaded to stay at a job. Sending their most intelligent maids to Paris for a few weeks to learn the rudiments of French cooking solved the problem.
The language barrier was the greatest hurdle. Because I was willing to teach these girls, I was often selected to deal with them. M. Mignot, the head chef, liked to tease me about it. “How well you work with les petites anglaises, eh, Louis?” he would say. Alors, I regarded encounters with les petites anglaises as pleasant interludes in my very hard-working life.
My first rule, as I taught these girls so long ago, concerns the actual ingredients of desserts. Eggs, milk, cream and anything else you use must be good and, especially, fresh. One stale egg or a little “off” cream can spoil a dish on which money and time have been lavished. Economizing on ingredients, using one less egg or adding less than the required amount of cream, will also prevent a perfect result. A good cook never takes this chance. At the same time, be warned also that you can spoil a dish by being too lavish and upsetting the balance of the ingredients. For example, adding more than enough eggs or egg yolks may, instead of improving your custard, give you something that is more like runny scrambled eggs. The next rule concerns cooking temperature, always an important factor in preparing any mixture that has a high proportion of eggs. As I have explained before, excessive hear toughens eggs. Cakes like spongecakes, modeleines, and meringues are therefore baked in a slow oven, 300° F. or less. Follow the same low-temperature procedure when you cook eggs with milk to make custard. The eggs must be kept below the boiling point or the mixture will curdle. If the heat can be kept very low and a heavy saucepan is used, custards can be made successfully over direct heat. I learned to make them this way on an old-fashioned stove on which the pan could easily be moved from the hottest part of the stove to a cooler spot. But the safest method is to use a double boiler, keeping the water just simmering, not boiling, in the bottom pan.
When you bake custards or molded meringues, place the baking dish or mold in a pan of water and bake the desserts in a slow oven, 300°F. or less. To keep the water in the pan from boiling, add a little cold water to it occasionally. A baked custard full of tiny holes, or one that separates into a very firm curd floating in a great deal of liquid, has been cooked at too high heat or it has been cooked too long. Use high heat only if the cooking time is very short, so short that the heat cannot affect the mixture adversely.
Here are some actual procedures to follow in cooking these desserts: Use a double boiler to scald milk unless you have a very heavy saucepan and use very low heat. Milk scorches easily, and once it scorches, the flavor is unpleasantly affected. Beat eggs or egg yolks or a combination of the two with a wire whip or a beater, then add sugar gradually and continue whipping until it is thoroughly mixed in. For a meringue, beat the whites until they begin to form peaks, add sugar gradually, and continue beating until the meringue makes firm peaks and all traces of graininess from undissolved sugar have disappeared.
In making custards, the crucial points come when the hot milk is combined with the eggs and sugar, and during the actual cooking. Never add eggs directly to a hot mixture. Always pour some of the hot liquid into the eggs, or eggs and sugar, stirring briskly, then return this warmed mixture to the remaining hot liquid in the pan. From that time, stir the custard constantly—over the low heat already mentioned—until it acquires body or, as the French say, du corps. You can test the custard by letting it run off the back of the spoon; if a light coating clings to the spoon, the custard is done. The French call this consistency à la nappe. With experience, you “feel” when the custard has cooked enough. Now remove it immediately from the heat, pour it into a cold bowl, and stir it briskly a few times to dissipate some of the heat. Stir the custard occasionally as it cool:, to prevent a surface skin from forming. When it is cool, chill it in the refrigerator.
Many desserts require a vanilla flavor, and this is usually best provided by a piece of vanilla bean, cut at about 1 inch long. The bean is generally soaked in the scalded milk and then discarded, or reserved for another using. If vanilla beans are unavailable, add 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract before the pudding goes into the refrigerator.
When combining a jellied custard, that is crème à l'anglaise collée, with whipped cream, chill the custard to the point where it just holds its shape when a spoon is put into it. Then fold in the whipped cream by cutting through the custard with the spoon and folding it over the whipped cream. Stirring in the whipped cream would break down its lightness.
When you work with cooked rice, always use a fork and toss the grains, rather than stirring them, to keep them from matting.
The French call baked custard crême renvertée When it is baked in a pan coated with caramel—and this variation is very popular—it becomes crème renversee au caramel. When the baking dish is simply buttered, it is crème renversée à la française. These custards often make their appearance with a chocolate or a fruit sauce. Light, delicate, and smooth, a nicely chilled baked custard is one of the most delightful French desserts.
Crème Renversée à la Française (Baked Vanilla Custard)
Scald 3 cups milk with a 1-inch piece of vanilla bean and let it stand for 10 minutes to absorb the vanilla flavor. Beat together 4 whole eggs and 4 egg yolks, gradually add 1/2 cup sugar, and continue beating until all is well mixed. Remove the vanilla bean and stir the milk into the egg mixture, a little at a time. Strain the mixture into a buttered mold, or into individual custard cups, set the cups in a pan of hot water, and bake the custard in a slow oven (300° F.), until it sets, occasionally adding a little cold water to the pan to keep the water from boiling. Allow about 45 to 50 minutes for a large mold, or 20 to 25 minutes for cups. When the custard is done, a small pointed knife inserted in the center will come out clean. Cool and chill it and unmold to serve.
Crème Renversée au Cbocolat (Baked Chocolate Custard)
Cook 1/2 cup water and 4 ounces grated sweet chocolate over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture is smooth. Combine with 2 1/2 cups scalded milk and follow the directions for Crème renversée a la française.
Crème Renversée au Caramel (Caramel Custard)
Follow the directions for versée à la française. Before pouring the custard into the baking pan or cups, line them with thick caramel.
Caramel
Distribute 1 cup sugar in a heavy skillet and moisten the sugar with 1/2 cup water. Let the mixture stand for about 5 minutes. Cook the mixture without stirring until it turns to syrup and becomes golden brown. Remove the syrup from the fire and pour it into a baking pan or cups, coating the sides as well as the bottom. If glass ovenware is used, heat the dish first in a warm oven.
Vanilla Pots de Crème
Scald 2 cups milk with a 1-inch piece of vanilla bean and 1/2 cup sugar, remove it from the heat, and let it stand for 10 minutes to absorb the vanilla flavor. Remove the vanilla bean and slowly pour 6 beaten egg yolks into the milk mixture, stirring constantly. Strain the mixture into custard cups or into pots de Crème (little cups with handles made for this dessert). Set them in a pan of hot water and bake the cups in a slow oven (300° F.) for 15 minutes, or until a small pointed knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Add cold water if necessary to keep the hot water in the pan from boiling. Cool the pots de Crème and chill them.
Chocolate Pots de Crème
Scald 1 cup each of milk and cream, add 1/2 pound sweet chocolate, grated, and cook the mixture, stirring constantly, until the chocolate is melted. Heat 6 egg yolks light and into them slowly pour the milk mixture, stirring constantly. Continue to cook, stirring, for a few minutes longer, and add sugar if desired. Strain the mixture into pots de Crème or small custard cups, cool them, and chill them. Serve the chocolate pots de Crème with heavy cream, plain or whipped.
Crème à l'Anglaise (English Cream)
Scald 1 1/2 cups milk with a 1-inch piece of vanilla bean, and let it stand for 10 minutes to absorb the vanilla flavor. Beat 3 egg yolks light, gradually add 1/3 cup sugar, and beat until the mixture is smooth and creamy. Stir in 1 teaspoon flour. Pour the scalded milk into the egg mixture, stirring constantly. Cook the mixture, over low direct heat or in the top of a double boiler over simmering water, stirring constantly, until it coats the back of the spoon. If cooked over direct heat, remove the cream from the heat the moment it reaches the boiling point. Remove the vanilla bean, pour the cream into a cold bowl, and stir it briskly. Cool the cream, stirring occasionally to prevent skin from forming, and chill it.
Ile Flottante (Floating Island)
Beat 4 egg whites stiff, adding 1/2 cup sugar, little by little, when they start to stiffen. Add 1/2 teaspoon vanilla and, if desired, 6 tablespoons roasted almonds or almond praline pounded to a powder, and turn the mixture into a 1-quart ring or swirl mold, buttered and sugared, or coated with caramel (see above). Place the mold in a pan of hot water and bake the meringue in a very slow oven (275° F.) for 20 to 25 minutes, or until it is firm. Cool the meringue, unmold it in a glass bowl, and pour crème à l'anglaise around it.
Gelatin combines with custard when the mixture is used for Bavarians and various other molded desserts. Serve these puddings with whipped cream, pureed fruit, macaroons, ladyfingers. or similar garnishes and accompaniments. This cream base is called crème à l'anglaise collée.
Crème à l'Anglaise Collée (English Cream with Gelatin)
Scald 1 cup milk with a 1-inch piece of vanilla bean, and let it stand for 10 minutes to absorb the vanilla flavor. Beat 3 egg yolks light, gradually add 1/2 cup sugar, and beat until the mixture is smooth and creamy. Pour the scalded milk into the egg mixture, stirring constantly. Cook the mixture over low direct heat or in the top of a double boiler over simmering water, stirring constantly, until it coats the back of the spoon. If cooked over direct heat, remove the cream from the heat the moment it reaches the boiling point, Remove the vanilla bean, pour the cream into a chilled bowl, and add 1/2 tablespoon gelatin dissolved in 2 tablespoons cold water. Stir the cream briskly, cool it, and chill it.
Bavarois à la Vanille (Vanilla Bavarian Cream)
Whip 1 cup heavy cream until it is stiff, and fold it into crème à l'anglaise collée when the crème just begins to thicken and hold its shape. Pour the Bavarian into a lightly buttered mold and chill it for 3 hours, or until it is set.
Bavarois au Cbocolat (Cbocolate Bavarian Cream)
Prepare crème à l'aglaise collée, adding 1/4 pound grated sweet chocolate to the hot milk and stirring it until the chocolate is thoroughly combined. Follow directions for vanilla Bavarian cream.
Bavaroish à l'Orange (Orange Bavarian Cream)
Boil 1/4 cup each of sugar and water for 4 minutes, stirring constantly, add 2 tablespoons grated orange rind, and cook until the liquid is reduced to 2 1/2 tablespoons. Stir in 2 tablespoons orange juice and l teaspoon lemon juice and add the mixture to crème à l'anglaise collée. When the crème just starts to thicken and hold its shape, fold in 3/4 cup heavy cream, whipped until stiff. Pour the Bavarian into a lightly buttered mold and chill it for 3 hours, or until it is set. Unmold the orange Bavarian on a serving dish and garnish it with orange sections.
Crème au Viu (Wine Cream)
Bring to a boil 1 cup each of sugar and white wine, and the juice and grated rind of l lemon and 1 orange, and add l tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 1/2 cup of the same wine. Cook the mixture for 1 minute longer. stirring constantly. Beat 6 egg yolks, stir into them a little of the hot mixture, and add them to the pan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture just reaches the boiling point. Strain the cream into a chilled bowl, cool it, and chill it. At serving time, fold in 2 egg whites, stiffly beaten.
Flamri de Semoule (Farina Pudding)
Scald 1 quart milk with a 1-inch piece of vanilla bean, and let it stand for 10 minutes to absorb the vanilla flavor. Remove the vanilla bean and stir in gradually 3/4 cup farina. Stir the mixture briskly with a wire whip and cook it for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Add 1/2 cup sugar and 1 envelope of gelatin dissolved in 2 tablespoons cold water, and stir all together well. Fold in 4 egg whites, beaten stiff with 1/4 cup sugar, and pour the flamri into a lightly buttered mold. Cool the flamri and chill it for 5 hours, or until it is set.
Pounding au Riz au Caramel (Caramel like Pudding)
Parboil 1/2 cup rice in water to cover for 3 to 4 minutes. Drain it and put it in a deep baking dish. Scald 2 cups milk with a 1-inch piece of vanilla bean and, when it reaches the boiling point, remove the vanilla bean and pour the milk over the rice. Cover the dish and bake the rice in a moderate oven (350° F.) for 1/2 hour. Do not stir the rice.
Cream 2 tablespoons butter with 1/2 cup sugar, add 2 egg yolks, and beat the mixture until it is smooth and creamy. Add the rice, tossing all together with a fork. Clean the baking dish and coat it with caramel (page 28), Fill the dish with the rice mixture, set it in a pan of hot water, and bake it in a moderately slow oven (325° F.) for 40 minutes, adding cold water to the pan as needed to keep it from boiling. Cool the pudding and chill it. At serving time, invert the mold on a serving dish and pour a little caramel around it.
Turban à l'Agen (Rice Pudding with Prunes)
Wash 1/2 cup rice in cold water, drain it, and bring it to a boil in water to cover. Turn off the heat and let the rice stand for 5 minutes. Drain it in a sieve and let cold water run through to rinse it. Bring to a boil 1 1/2 cups scalded milk, the rice, 1/4 cup sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and a 1-inch piece of vanilla bean, and add 1/2 tablespoon butter. Remove the vanilla bean. Cover the pan and cook the rice over very low direct heat for 1/2 hour, or in the top of a double boiler over simmering water for 45 minutes. Add 1/2 tablespoon gelatin dissolved in 2 tablespoons cold water, tossing the rice with a fork. Add 2 egg yolks, beaten, and spread the rice on a platter to cool.
Fold in 1/2 cup heavy cream, whipped stiff, turn the rice into a lightly buttered ring mold, cool the rice, and chill it for 3 hours, or until it is firm. At serving time, unmold the rice onto a serving dish and fill the center with the following prune compote: Combine 1 1/4 cups prunes, soaked in water for 3 hours and drained, with 1 cup each of red wine and water, and 1 slice of lemon, and cook until the prunes are soft and the liquid is reduced to 1 cup. Remove the pits from the prunes, if desired, and add 3 tablespoons apricot jam. Cool the compote and chill it.