In most places, from the moment an infant is born, there is always someone struggling to wean him into a three-meal-a-day pattern as quickly as possible. Mothers and infant nurses heave a great sigh of relief when the midnight feeding can be discontinued. Governesses and school teachers are delighted nine years later, when the child has outgrown his need for midmorning milk and crackers. The child's wishes in these matters are seldom considered—he must usually wait about eighteen years before he can have a gay little supper at midnight, a coffee break at eleven, or a substantial tea at four, without feeling guilty about it.
In Vienna, where they live quite simply on six meals a day, and no one ever eats between meals, all things are different. The infants midnight feeding bottle changes painlessly into a bottle of ice-cold Sekt, and the child's midmorning milk and crackers drift gently into the Gabelfrübstük. Viennese children are trained to eat more, rather than less, as they grow older, and more rather than fewer times each day.
The first opportunity to take food comes at the moment of waking. This snack is called the Frübstük— the “early-piece”—and comes to the Viennese in bed so that no time is lost between waking and eating. It is considered much more pleasant to be awakened with food than to have to ring for it.
The Viennese could waltz all night under the stars or cross the city in open carriages at dawn in their thinnest ball gowns, but once at home and in bed, they took the dangers of exposure to night air seriously and carefully guarded against them. To be caught in a draft or to take cold were catastrophies against which all Viennese barricaded themselves as against the pest.
Heavy portieres shrouded double doors, double windows had cushions in between to prevent the slightest draft. (This Polster made a comfortable elbow rest when, later in the day, it became necessary to see what was going on in Vienna.) The jalousies were closed, the heavy window draperies were drawn, a low screen served as a final shield in front of the window. The bed usually stood in a niche protected by more curtains and screens. The Viennese, in heavy sleeping attire, buried themselves under their feather beds (eighteen to twenty-four inches deep of the finest goose down in a covering of softest linen) with a white fur rug next to the bed so that they could step into warmth when they finally arose. The bed itself was a lovely Biedermeier sleigh bed with high footboard to insure against any Zug that might have found its way through an unprotected crack.
Into this dungeon of darkness and warmth came the sound of a gentle tap on the door, and the Sophies and Annas greeted their Herrscbaft with a “Kuss die Hand” and Frübstük. This “early-piece,” which required no fork, came in a lovely Alt Wien chocolate or coffee pitcher with a delicate cup, accompanied by a bowl of sweetened whipped cream and a crescent roll fresh and crisp from the baker. The hermetically sealed Viennese brought themselves slowly back to consciousness with sweet refreshment. They spooned several portions of cream into their chocolate or coffee cups and asked about the day. Any indication of the weather or temperature outside was impossible to ascertain from within.
The jalousies, the screens, the curtains, and the draperies were finally drawn and the day was faced. Whether the day was an important one—whether it meant only household planning or a momentous contract to be signed at the bureau—promptly at eleven all major and minor activity ceased for the day's second important pause, the Gabelfrübstük, or, as it might be literally translated, “early-fork-piece.”
A Gabelfrübstük represents all the name implies, since eating it demands a fork. For those who live in the provinces, it can be an egg eaten at home, but in Vienna an egg eaten at home alone would be an egg wasted. The Frübstück having been eaten alone or intimately ä deux, the Gabelfrübstük is eaten in public, if possible.
Ladies who may have stopped in at a few shops before a late-morning concert fortify themselves with a glass of Sherry and a tiny asparagus roll. Frau Direktor may have a little scoop of foie gras on a slice of Kastenbrot at a very smart Utile shop, while Herr Direktor strolls on the Ringstrasse, where he can see the other members of his profession, and stops for a scrambled egg on smoked salmon at a café. Frau Müller, with her shopping bag, cats an open sandwich at her butcher's, and the taxi driver stops for a sausage at a stand. All over Vienna, from the porlier's lodge to the Schloss Garten, everyone had and still has a little tiny Gabelfrübstük, a little something for the system to work on, a little something to occupy the brain and perhaps a little meeting to occupy the heart. A half hour may be lost out of the day, but time given over to food is never thought of as lost.
There were Utile shops that came to life at eleven each morning and disappeared behind their metal shutters in the afternoon. Patrons came to the shop not only for the quality of its Sherry and the imagination shown in its open sandwiches, but also for the discretion with which the owner imparted or withheld the news of the day. He had to know that Frau Gräfin did not want to hear that her rival had just dropped in looking absolutely ravishing in a new creation—that Frau Gräfin really wanted to hear about her own enchanting appearance in her boa, and that her rival was showing signs of age. She wanted to hear that Herr Kammersänger had been asking for her not ten minutes ago and that Excellenz was away on the Riviera. No one entered a shop without a greeting and no one left without being bowed out. The shopkeeper always said “Bitte beebren Sic Uns wieder” (please honor us again when he opened the door for a departing patron.
The Gabelfrübstük was usually eaten standing, often with gloves on. The ladies pushed their veils up over their noses and the gentlemen adjusted their monocles and clicked their heels. An actress from the Burgtheater accepted congratulations on her performance of the evening before while she revived with a Scbluck of Sherry and a little caviar profuterole. The Kammersängerin whispered over her tiny mousse in order to spare her voice for tomorrow's Isolde.
No one ate a great deal, two or three little sandwiches at most, a glass of Sherry—it was only a pause that Stimulated and warmed, a moment's meeting with a friend, a delightful bit of idle chatter. There was news of a rise or fall on the exchange and a glimpse of the latest fashions from Paris.
Gabelfrübstük could also be eaten at a regular food market, the sort of shop that, in Vienna, combines the features of a true delicatessen Läden and a grocery store. A large establishment with sawdust-covered floors and room to move about in, it provided space for rows of sausages hanging from the walls and a counter for the finest smoked meats and fish. There were imported fruits, too—blood oranges from Spain, figs from Italy, preserved peaches from California. Gabelfrübstück at such a shop meant a slice of the finest salami or Westphalian ham extended from behind the counter on a long knife—here it meant a tasting of a sliver of cheese from Switzerland or a herring from Norway.
On the Kohlmarkt such a shop served a sort of complimentary snack to its customers—no Sherry, and no charge for the little tastings. A large terrine of foie gras always stood ready, with a scoop, and saleswomen offered little trays of specialties. Even the dogs who accompanied their mistresses were offered little Gabelfrübstük of their own from behind the meat counter.
The carriage drivers who drank thick soups at the kiosks gave feed bags to their horses, and the pigeons picked oats from the cobbles.
No one lingered too long—after all, too much Gabelfrübstück might spoil their enjoyment of lunch, and that would be a disaster.
Gänseleber Igel (Goose Liver “Porcupines”)
Chill a can of pálé dc foie gras with truffles in the refrigerator. Brown ½ cup slivered almonds with about 2 teaspoons salted butter in a very slow oven 200° F.), shaking them frequently. Sprinkle them with ¼ teaspoon salt and drain them on absorbent paper. Remove both ends of the foie gras can and push out the pâté. Slice it ½ inch thick with a hot knife and stick the slices with the slivered almonds. Peel apples and slice them ½ inch thick. Use only the 4 or 5 center slices. Trim the slices into even rounds with a cookie cutter and cut out the core. Saute the apple slices gently in butter until they are golden and just tender. Apples differ in consistency and some cook much faster than others. Transfer the hot apple slices with a spatula to a hot serving platter and lay a slice of goose liver on each. Serve the “porcupines” at once, with dry Sherry.
Spargel Rotten (Asparagus Pastry Roll)
Sift 4 cups flour onto a pastry board, make a well in the center, and into it put 1 teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon sugar, 1 egg, and 1 ¼ cups softened butter. Stir the ingredients in the center and incorporate enough flour to make a dough that can be worked with the hands. Gradually add ½ cup ice water and continue to work the dough until it is smooth. Chill the dough in the refrigerator. Boil 1 large bunch of asparagus in salted water to cover for about 8 minutes, or until it is nearly tender. Do not overcook the asparagus, as it will be baked later. Drain and cool the asparagus completely. Cut off the asparagus stalks 3 or 4 inches from the tips, discarding the stalk bottoms.
Divide the dough into 4 parts. On a floured pastry board roll one part of the dough into a strip ¼ inch thick and about 4 by 16 inches. Sprinkle the rolled dough with 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan and ¼ teaspoon salt. Lay a line of asparagus end to cud along one long edge of the strip, roll up the dough, and trim all surplus dough from the edges. Paint the seam of the finished roll with egg while and press the dough together to seal it. Lay the roll on a buttered baking sheet, seam side down. Prick the roll with a fork, paint it generously with 1 egg yolk beaten with 1 teaspoon water, and sprinkle it generously with grated Parmesan. Make similar rolls with the rest of the dough and asparagus. Bake the rolls in a moderate oven (350° F.) for 20 minutes, or until they are brown. Serve at once, cutting a 4-inch piece for each serving.
Gebackene Champignons (Mushroom Fritters)
Select 1 pound uniform white button mushrooms, cut off the stems a quarter inch below the caps, and wipe the mushrooms with a clean cloth. Sprinkle the caps, stems up, with ½ teaspoon salt. Turn them after an hour, sprinkle the other side with ½ teaspoon salt and the juice of half a lemon, and let them rest.
Beat 2 egg yolks until they are light and creamy and add ¾ teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons oil, and 1 cup lukewarm beer. Beat in 1 ¾ cups flour. Beat the batter until it is smooth and let it rest at room temperature for half an hour. Beat 2 egg whites very stiff and fold them into the batter. Dip the mushrooms in the batter and fry them 5 or 6 at a time in deep hot fat (375° F.) for about 4 minutes, or until they arc golden. You may also fry them in an inch of fat in a skillet. Turn them once if a skillet is used. With a slotted spoon transfer the mushrooms to a warm oven-proof platter and set the platter in a warm oven (200° F.). Just before serving, dust the mushrooms with chopped parsley and serve them as hot as possible, with lemon wedges. Serve the following sauce separately:
Combine ½ onion, chopped very fine, 2 tablespoons capers, chopped line, 3 tablespoons drained sweet pickle relish, ½ teaspoon dry mustard, the grated zest and juice of half a lemon and 2 tablespoons dill pickle, finely chopped, with ¾ cup mayonnaise. Add salt to taste and chill the sauce. Add a little cream if the sauce is too thick. The hot mushrooms are dipped in this ice-cold sauce.
For Gabelfrübstiück, allow 2 or 3 mushrooms for each serving. For a first course or luncheon dish, allow 6 to 8.
Scrambled Egg and Smoked Salmon Sandwiches
Trim the crusts from 6 large slices of pumpernickel bread and butter them evenly with sweet butter. Lay a thick slice of smoked salmon on each slice of bread and trim the edges, and season the salmon generously with freshly ground black pepper. Beat 4 eggs with 2 tablespoons heavy cream and salt to taste and scramble them in butter over low heat. Divide the scrambled eggs among the 6 sandwiches, mounding them in the center of each, sprinkle the eggs with chives, finely minced, and decorate with parsley and lemon slices. Serve the sandwiches immediately.
Gefüllte Gurken (Cucumber Cups)
Peel 3 cucumbers, using a fluted knife, if possible, to leave stripes of green rind. Cut the cucumbers in ¾-inch slices and hollow our each slice with a round potato cutter, to make-little cups. Blanch the cucumber cups for a few seconds in boiling salted water, drain them well, and sprinkle them with ¼ cup French dressing (page 36).
Put 4 slices of mild smoked salmon through the meat grinder and add I hard-cooked egg, riced, the grated zest and juice of half a lemon, and a generous grinding of black pepper. Add salt if necessary. Drain the cucumber cups and fill each with a mound of the ground salmon. At serving time, sprinkle the salmon with freshly grated horseradish and insert in each cup a little sprig of parsley. Makes about 30 cups.
Scbinken Roulade (Ham Roll)
Heat a baking sheet in a hot oven (400° F.).
Beat 5 egg whites stiff, add ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon sugar, and continue to beat until the whiles are very stiff. Sprinkle 1 ½ teaspoons finely minced parsley over the egg whites. Beat 4 egg yolks light and creamy and fold them gently into the whites. Sprinkle ½ cup flour over the mixture, a little at a time, and fold it in gently until it is incorporated. With a Spatula spread the batter ½ inch thick on a piece of wax paper, forming it into a rectangle about 11 by 15 inches. Sprinkle the batter with 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan. Lay the hot baking sheet beside the wax paper, slip the paper onto the sheet, and return it to the oven. Bake the batter fur 8 to 10 minutes, or until it is golden and the sponge roll comes away from the wax paper easily. Invert the sponge roll on a towel sprinkled with flour. Carefully peel off the wax paper, roll up the sponge roll in the towel, and let it cool. Put ½ pound ham through the meat grinder and combine it thoroughly with ½ cup creamed butter, 1 teaspoon prepared brown mustard, ½ teaspoon dry mustard, sale and pepper to taste, and ½ cup thick white sauce. Add 2 shallots, finely minced, 1 tablespoon Port, 2 tablespoons brandy, and 2 ½ ounces of liver paste. Correct the seasoning with salt. Unroll the cooled sponge roll, spread it evenly with the ham filling. Roll it up, wrap the ham roll in wax paper and chill it. At serving time, trim the ends of the roll, lay it on a platter, and spread it with a mixture of one 3-ounce package of cream cheese, 2 teaspoons anchovy paste, and 2 tablespoons sour cream. Sprinkle the roll with a hard-cooked egg, riced, and decorate the platter with parsley. Serve ½-inch slices.
Kleine Pfannkuchen mil Rahm (Pancakes with Sour Cream)
Boil 2 or 3 potatoes in lightly salted water to cover until they are tender. Rice the hot potatoes and let them cool.
Beat 2 egg yolks light and creamy and stir in 3 tablespoons heavy cream, 1 teaspoon salt, 3 tablespoons flour, and 1 cup of the cold potatoes, firmly packed. Beat 2 egg whites with a pinch of salt until they are very still and fold them into the potato mixture. Melt ¼ cup butter in a skillet and drop in the batter by teaspoons. The pancakes should be about 1 ½ inches in diameter. Cook the pancakes, several at a time, until they are brown on both sides, turning them once. Transfer the browned pancakes to a serving platter and keep them warm. Makes about 30 pancakes.
Beat ½ cup sour cream with enough light cream to make a medium-thick mixture. Add ¼ cup fresh chives, finely minced, and salt generously to taste. Chill the sauce. To serve, top each hot pancake with a teaspoon of the cold sauce.
Shrimp Aspic on Orange Slices
Peel, divide and clean 16 small shrimp and poach them in salted water until they arc pink and opaque. Drain them well and sprinkle them immediately with ¼ cup tarragon vinegar. Simmer 1 ½ cups stock with 2 cups tomato juice. To the boiling liquid add 1 teaspoon each of parsley and chervil. minced, and ½ teaspoon each of dill and tarragon, minced. Soften 2 envelopes of gelatin in ½ cup Sherry. Take the stock from the heat, add the gelatin, and stir until it is dissolved. Add salt and pepper generously to taste and let the aspic cool.
Rinse 8 individual molds in cold water, place 2 shrimp in each, and pour the coo! tomato aspic into the molds. Chill the shrimp molds in the refrigerator until the aspic is set. Grate the zest of 2 oranges, peel the fruit, and slice it very thin. Unmold each aspic onto a slice of orange. Sprinkle the aspics with chopped parsley and with the grated orange zest. Serves 8.