On that sunny morning in 1911, when I first saw the grand old statue holding her torch high over New York harbor, I had the mixed emotions common to all immigrants. Would I like America? Would America accept me?
Alors, I was certainly on my own. Three thousand miles of blue Atlantic separated me from my loved ones; the only friends I had in my new home were a few chefs I had known in la belle France. Fortunately, the New York Ritz-Carlton, where I was coming to work, was almost like home to me, because it was so much like the other famous Ritz establishments where I had already spent several years. All the familiar equipment was in my kitchens, and I had a supporting staff of fine chefs to help me provide the same cuisine française that we had prepared for many of the same guests at the Ritz in Paris and in London.
Some of the rules of these original Ritz hotels might interest you. They were run like small exclusive clubs, in which the guests became welcome babitués, returning again and again. The guest's preferences came first: he could ask for special foods, and any small attentions he required were thoughtfully supplied. If a guest issued a complaint, however trivial, in the dining room, the manager immediately appeared, extended a personal apology, and tore up the check. A waiter could survive two complaints, but the third indicated either slackness or lack of interest, and meant instant dismissal.
My kitchen equipment included everything imaginable. One never lacked for any sort of pan or utensil. What did bother me was the difficulty I had in procuring the foodstuffs that French chefs consider essential. What French cook can work without leeks, what saucier can do without shallots? Yet in New York at that time, such ingredients could not be obtained; equally scarce were artichokes, English sole, herbs of various kinds, and many other foods now sold everywhere.
Since I had worked in London, I had some command of the language. Then. too. a young Englishman, Bob Trudge, who had worked by my side in Paris as a commis-chef, had decided to come to this country. And Monsieur Bordeaux, my old friend from Paris who had lived in England for some time as Huron Rothschild's chef, came to New York to be my night chef. He also spoke English with me. So in spite of the fact that French was used so generally at the Ritz, I soon managed to master English. But always there are a few words, usually those spelled the same in the two languages, that trip you up. Which brings us to the subject of this month's article, cooking en casserole.
So many times, when guests asked me for recipes for good casserole dishes, I couldn't understand why those that I suggested seldom seemed to be what they wanted, The clue, of course, lay in the quite different meanings given to the word “casserole” in French and in English.
A casserole to the French chef is any deep cooking utensil. It may be a metal saucepan or a kettle with a handle. Or it may be made of clay or enameled iron and have two small side handles. So the French use a casserole to boil potatoes and cabbages, as well as for dishes like stews and coq au vin (February, 1958). The casserole does not necessarily come to the table as a serving dish, although this very often is done. But in this country, as I understand the term, “casserole” refers to an attractive baking dish that almost invariably appears at the table.
In France, en casserole dishes are usually cooked on top of the stove, although the oven would serve equally well. The reason, of course, is a premium on fuel in French homes, and it lakes much less fuel for gentle simmering over direct heat than for oven cookery. This method, in turn; affects the choice of utensils. The pot must be able to withstand the direct heat; consequently, china, even ovenproof china, docs not suit the purpose. However, the brown clayware that people consider so typically French can be used if an asbestos pad is put between it and the heat, and the heat is kept low. Most French cooks rely on the Sturdy casseroles made of enameled ironware.
The well-equipped kitchen needs two or three casseroles of different sues. You'll find that even when you are Serving the same number of people, the size of casserole you need will vary with the recipe. If, par example, the recipe includes several vegetables and also potatoes, the casserole will have to be larger than one used for a recipe that calls for just one or two vegetables with the meat My advice is to add up roughly the cups of ingredients the recipe requires and then to use a casserole of suitable size.
A new clay casserole usually needs to be seasoned to remove the raw clay taste that it will otherwise impart to the food the first few times it is used. To do this, chop up a few onions and cloves of garlic, skins and all, put them into the casserole, and fill it with cold water. Bring the water slowly to the boil. Empty the pot and repeat the process. In French restaurants, it is customary also to rub the entire outside surface with cut garlic before seasoning the casserole. This procedure supposedly toughens the clay.
In many of the recipes that follow. you will notice that the meat is browned first. In this case, I think you will find it easier and more satisfactory to brown the meat in a skillet and then to transfer it to the casserole with the other ingredients and the liquid. Meat always browns better in a utensil with shallow sides, and you can cook a few pieces at a time without crowding them, removing each piece to the casserole as it finishes browning. All the juices that have browned in the pan can be saved by adding to it some, or all, of the liquid called for in the recipe and cooking this liquid until the crustiness dissolves.
If you prefer to cook these casserole dishes in the oven, remember to keep the heat low. Remember also that an oven casserole must be watched carefully and more liquid added as needed. The liquid reduces more quickly when the heat is all around the utensil than when it is hot only on the bottom.
Most of these recipes, like many others of the series, call for a faggot. To make a faggot, cut a stalk of celery in two pieces three or four inches long. In the curve of one piece, tuck a few sprigs of parsley, folding in the ends, lay on this a bay leaf, and sprinkle: with a little thyme. If the recipe does not include carrots, a small piece of carrot is sometimes tucked in with the parsley. Place the other piece of celery on top very firmly and secure the faggot by winding a long piece of string closely around it. Unless you assemble a faggot firmly and bind it tightly with siring, it is apt to fall apart during the cooking. Always discord the faggot before serving the dish it flavors.
When the recipes call for tomatoes to be peeled, seeded, and chopped, proceed this way: hold the tomato on a fork over a high flame until the skin splits. Peel the tomato and cut it in half crosswise. Pick up each half in turn, cut side down, and squeeze it gently until the seeds and water drip our. Now chop or dice the tomato on the chopping board.
I would like to call your attention especially to oxtail à la parisienne. Oxtails are very rich in fat and can be quite indigestible unless all the fat is cooked out. Therefore, I advise cooking this dish a day ahead and allowing it to stand overnight so that the fat can rise and be skimmed off. Also you might note that in veal recbauffé and capilotade of chicken, the two recipes that use meat that has already been cooked, the meat is cooked only long enough to reheat it; rebooking meat for any length of time always toughens it.
Oxaih à la Parisienne
Have the butcher cut 2 oxtails weighing about 4 pounds in 2- to 3-inch sections. Wipe the meat with a damp cloth and put it in a deep bowl. Add 1 carrot and 2 onions, all coarsely chopped. 10 peppercorns, 1 teaspoon salt with a pinch of spice parisienne or poultry seasoning, and a faggot made by tying Together a stalk of celery, 3 sprigs of parsley, a small bay leaf, and a little thyme. Add 1 cup red wine. Marinate the meat in the refrigerator overnight.
Drain the marinade and reserve it with the faggot. Dry the oxtails well and brown the pieces, one at a rime, in a hot skillet in 4 tablespoons melted beef fat. Remove the meat to a casserole, and in the skillet brown the carrot and onions from the marinade. Skim most of the fat from the skillet, blend in 4 tablespoons flour, and cook until the Hour begins to turn golden. Add the reserved marinade. 1 cup tomato puree, and 1 cup beef stock. Cook, stirring, until the mixture boils, and pour it over the oxtails. Add the faggot. I clove of garlic, crushed, and enough water to cover. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover the casserole, and cook over low heat for about 3 hours, or until the oxtails are tender. Remove the meat to a bowl and strain the sauce over it. Cool and store in the refrigerator overnight or until the fat rises to the surface and congeals. Remove the layer of fat.
About 40 minutes before serving time. remove the meat and the sauce to a casserole and add 12 to 15 small white onions and 12 to 15 large carrot dice that have been glazed in a little butter in a shallow pan. Bring to a boil and cook until the vegetables are lender. Add 12 small boiled potatoes, correct the seasoning with salt, and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Blanquette of Veal
In a saucepan parboil for 5 minutes 2 pounds rump of veal, cubed, drain the meat, and rinse it immediately in cold water. Remove the veal to a casserole, add 1 quart water, and bring the liquid to a boil. Add to the casserole 12 to 15 small white unions, 3 carrots, cut in large pieces, 1 teaspoon salt, and a faggot made by tying together 1 stalk of celery, 3 sprigs of parsley, a small bay leaf, and a little thyme. Cover the casserole and cook (he meat and vegetables slowly for 1 to 1 ½ hours, or until they are tender.
Wash 1 pound mushrooms and put them in a saucepan with ½ cup water, the juice of 1 lemon, and ½ teaspoon salt. Bring the liquid to a boil, remove the pan from the heat, and let the mushrooms marinate in the liquid.
When the meat is done, remove the casserole from the heat, drain the liquid into a saucepan, and cook it until it is reduced to one-third the original quantity, In another saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons butter, add 2 tablespoons flour, and cook the roux until the flour turns golden. Add to the roux the reduced cooking liquid from the casserole and the mushroom liquor. Cook (he sauce, stirring constantly, until it is smooth and thickened; boil the sauce slowly for 15 to 20 minutes, still stirring constantly. Beat 2 egg yolks lightly and combine them with a little of the hot sauce and 1 cup cream. Add the mixture to the sauce and bring it just to the boiling point but do not allow it to boil. Correct the seasoning with salt, discard the faggot, and add the sauce and the mushrooms to the meat and vegetables in the casserole. Serve with rice or boiled potatoes.
Veal Recbauffé
In a flameproof casserole in 2 tablespoons melted butter sauté ¼ cup chopped onion until it is golden. Add I clove of garlic, crushed, and blend in 1 tablespoon flour. Add 1 cup each of red wine and STOCK and bring the sauce to a boil, stirring constantly. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and a faggot made by eying together 1 stalk of celery, 2 sprigs of parsley, a small bay leaf, and a little thyme. Cook the sauce very slowly for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Sauté in a skillet in 1 tablespoon melted butter 12 to 15 cleaned small mushrooms until tiny are soft, Remove the mushrooms and add to the butter in the pan 12 to 15 small white onions. Sprinkle them with sugar to taste and sauté them slowly until they are glazed and tender, adding a little more butter as needed. To the sauce in the casserole add the mushrooms, onions, and 1 ½ pounds cooked veal, diced. Bring the rechauffé to a boil and cook for I minute longer. Discard the faggot, correct the seasoning with salt, and add a little freshly ground pepper to taste and 1 teaspoon chopped parsley. If a thicker Sauce is preferred, add manié butter made by creaming 1 tablespoon butter with 1 teaspoon flour. Serve with noodles or boiled potatoes.
Beef Goulasb
In a skillet sauté 4 large onions. chopped, in 2 tablespoons melted butter until they are golden brown. Turn the onions and the butter into a casserole. Melt 4 tablespoons beef fat in the skillet and in it brown 2 ½ pounds lean beef, cut in cubes and salted to taste, sautéing the meat a few pieces at a time. Remove the browned meat to the casserole and add 1 small green pepper, diced, 2 tablespoons Hungarian paprika, and 3 cups beef stock. Bring the liquid to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer the goulash, covered, for 2 ½ hours, or until the meat is very tender. Ik-fore serving the goulash, correct the seasoning with salt. Serve with wide noodles or boiled potatoes.
Carbonnade of Beef
In a flameproof casserole in 4 tablespoons melted butter sauté 4 thinly sliced onions until they are golden. Season 2 ½ to 3 pounds chuck, cut in 12 thin slices, with salt and pepper, and brown the beef, a few slices at a time, in a hot skillet in 2 tablespoons beef fat. As the slices brown, add them to the onions in the casserole. Add 2 tablespoons Hour to the fat in the skillet and when the flour turns golden add 2 cups beer, 2 tablespoons vinegar, and 3 cups beef stock. Cook the sauce, stirring constantly, until it boils and add it to the casserole. Add 1 teaspoon sugar and a faggot made by tying together 1 stalk of celery, 3 sprigs of parsley, a small piece of carrot, a small bay leaf, and a little thyme. Bring the casserole to a boil, cover it, and cook over low heat on top of the stove or in a hot oven (400° F.) for 1 ¾ hours, or until the meat is tender. Discard the faggot and skim the fat. Serve with boiled potatoes.
Navarin d'Agneau à la Parisienne (Lamb Stew Parisienne)
Cut 2 ½ to 3 pounds shoulder of lamb into 12 pieces, 2 for each serving. Season the pieces with salt and pepper to taste. In a hot skillet in 2 tablespoons melted beef or pork far brown the pieces a few at a time, removing them as they are done to a flameproof casserole. Discard the fat from the skillet bur do not wash the pan; in it melt 1 tablespoon butter over low heat and add 1 teaspoon finely chopped shallot or onion and 2 tablespoons Hour. Cook slowly, stirring constantly, until the flour turns golden. Add 2 cups water, ½ cup stewed tomatoes, and 2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, cook 1 minute longer, until the sauce is smooth and thickened, and pour it over the meat. Add ½ cup red or white wine to the skillet and stir it over the heat to dissolve any brown bits clinging to the pan. Add the wine to the casserole with 1 clove of garlic, crushed, and a faggot made by tying together 1 stalk of celery, 4 sprigs of parsley, a small bay leaf, and a little thyme. Bring to a boil, cover the casserole, and cook the stew 45 minutes.
Dice enough carrots to make l ½ cups and enough white turnips to make 1 cup. Cover the vegetables with boiling water, parboil them for 3 minutes, and drain them. Sprinkle the vegetables with sugar to taste and in a skillet in 1 tablespoon melted butter brown them lightly. Remove the vegetables to a bowl and in the same skillet saute 12 to 15 small white onions until golden.
Remove the meat to a dish, strain the cooking liquid into a howl, and skim the fat. Wash the casserole, return the meat to it, and place the vegetables on top. Cover the vegetables with a layer of 12 to 15 small potatoes and pour over all the strained cooking liquor. Bring to a boil again and simmer for ½ hour longer. Add 1 cup each of peas and green beans cut in ½inch pieces. Cut a circle of wax paper the size of the casserole, make a tiny hole in the center, and place the paper over the meat and vegetables. Cover the casserole and simmer it for 25 minutes longer, or until all the vegetables are tender. Discard the paper and the faggot. Sprinkle the casserole with finely chopped parsley and chives.
Capilotade of Chicken
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a flameproof casserole, add 2 tablespoons chopped onions, and cook until the onions start to turn golden. Add 1 tablespoon chopped shallots, 1 clove of garlic, crushed, and 1 cup mushrooms, sliced. Cook over low heat until the mushrooms are soft. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon flour over the mushrooms, mix well, and add 1/3 cup red or white wine, 1 cup chicken stock, and 2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens and continue cooking very slowly 10 to 15 minutes longer. Add 2 cups cooked chicken, cut in large dice, and bring to the boiling p