Alpinists and skiers, sun-seekers and sybarites, all find rich rewards in these dramatic Northern corners of Italy
It is difficult to avoid the skyrocketing prose of a travel pamphleteer in discussing this theatrically beautiful part of Italy. Everything about it—the awe-inspiring scenery. the opportunities for fun and travel, the high quality of the hotels and the cooking, the picturesqueness of the architecture and folklore—tempts one to employ the floweriest Thomas Cook vocabulary. What the Dolomites really need is a poet. These great jagged rocks leave the beholder breathless and bereft of adequate words. Sometimes they rise up ghostlike out of the mist, immense iridescent teeth bathed in lavender light. As the day wears on the colors change, and the rocks are alternately mauve and cinnamon brown, with overtones ranging from pink to ochre. Millions of years of erosion have created these grotesque denticulated shapes—spires, caravans, camels' humps—which take on an indescribable violet red at sunset.
Totally unlike the Swiss Alps in silhouette, the Dolomites resee them in one noteworthy respect; both offer exciting inducements to the traveler, the sportsman, and praise be, the visiting gourmet. It would take a column or two to list all of the mountain towns here that have comforted small hotels for skiers and summer people, and with palate cooking, too. The motorist and the cyclist find wonderfully fine roads to take them over the mountain passes, and if they wish to roost overnight amidst the crags, there are adequate summer hostelrics even in those lofty ravines.
The Dolomites, in short, offer extravagant inducements to many kinds of visitors, but on an economical plane. Incidentally they were named, oddly enough, for a Frenchman who spent a lifetime studying them. His name—Déodat Guy Silvain Tancrède Cratet de Dolomicu.
It seems necessary to endure a bit of geographical briefing to obtain a clear picture of the two regions discussed in the following pages. The far northeastern corner of Italy, a sprawling area which includes the denticulated Dolomites, the plains of Padua, and the lagoons of Venice, goes under the name of Venetia. Like Gaul, in that famous first sentence of Caesar, it is divided into three parts. One is Veneto, dominated by Venice and further brightened by such famous cities as Verona and Vicenza. The epicurean joys of Veneto were discussed in these pages in August, 1955. A glance at our little map will, we hope. show the other two parts clearly. One carries the rather heavy title of Trentino-Alto Adige, and runs to the Austrian holder. The other isn't easy to remember, either. It is Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and adjoins both Austria and Jugoslavia.
The extent to which Italy' frontiers have changed during the past two wars is demonstrated by both regions. The Italian flag flies over Trenrino-Alto Adige as a result of the Treaty of Versailles, which awarded this Tryolcan strip of Austria to her southern adversary in 1919. Friuli-Vcnczia Giulia, on the other hand, is cramped for elbow room on its eastern frontier because of territorial concessions made to Jugoslavia after World War II. Alto Adige is one of three autonomous regions under the Italian Repic. (Sicily and the Valley of Aosia are the other two.) You have the exhilarating feeling of visiting two countries for the price of One when you come here. The language, the architecture, and the food, to some extent, are Tyrolean, but you're still in Italy. In Friult-Venczia Giulia, however, one senses no international atmosphere. It' as Italian as polenta or tagliatelli, even in Trieste, whose boundaries were not settled until 1954. In the ensuing pages we will discuss the two regions separately, beginning with Trentino-Alto Adige and the cities where the pasting gourmet will find felicity.
Moist, fertile valleys and hillsides make this a land of plenty, teeming with fruit and vegetables. We drove for miles through verdant areas where fields were planted with a kind of succotash of corn and beans sowed in alternate rows. Strips ofossoming potato plants ran next to yellow bands of ripe grain, with apple, pear, apricot, and cherry trees between them. One field seemed to produce half-a-dozen crops at once. The vineyards offered another evidence of concentrated farming. The vines were trained on pergolas,ue-green with early summer spray, but the ground beneath wasn't idle. It was tapestried with potatoes, peas, corn, and string beans, Small wonder that this land bristles with canneries and jam factories. The famous house of Zuegg, well known exporters, puts up its celebrated candied fruit, preserves. Macedonia, and chestnut Cream in this abundant corner of Italy.
Tryolcan and Italian cookery live amicably side by side in the Upper Adige. Menus are printed in two languages, sometimes with rather cumbersome results. Baby ravioli become Supfkrapfeln and vermicelli in milk must be pronounced Tscbottnudeln. But Wlirstel con Crauti combines the best of both languages, and if you order it in Bolzano, you will have a choucroute garnic (to make this discourse truly multilingual) with magnificent sausages and smoked pork and sauerkraut. This is often served with ravioli alla trentina, which are stuffed with roasted and salted meat, chicken, onion, and parsley. And there is plenty of wonderful beer to accompany your feast!
Wild hare scamper over these wooded hills, and often appear on local tes as lepre alla trontina, a rich stew which needs only a little polenta and green salad to make a royal meal.
Polenta thrives here, as in the neighboring Vcneto provinces, but it is made from dark Saracen' grain, and is usually served with small birds or game. The conventional Italian gnocchi has here an interesting variation called canderli. These turn out to be dumplings made of flour, bread crumbs, milk, eggs, sausages, bacon, ham, and parsley. You eat them boiled ID a consommé or dry with sauerkraut. Sound good?
Finally, these people are inordinately fond of pastry. If you have the same weakness, some of the local favorites worth seeking out in the shops are Mostazzon, Zelter and Strudel. You may also ask for orecchia di lepre without fear of getting a rabbit' ear, It' a delicious little cake of approximately the same shape.
Bacchus has his day in this joyous land, particularly in the hills around Bolzano. The vineyards date back to Roman times and even earlier, for Virgil sang the praises of these vintages long ago and Caesar Augustus had a particular affection for them. Through two millenia the vine-yards have prospered, thanks to the devotion of the hardworking peasants.
One of the best wines in the Bolzano area is Santa Maddelena, a delicate red wine, subtle in color and agree-e in aroma. This often appears on the tes of good hotels in Bolzano. Two other good reds are Guncina and San Giustino, both available on wine lists, and there is a good vin rosé with a delicate aroma reminiscent of vanilla, called Lagrcin-Rosato. Kuchelberger is the local wine of Merano, and Teroldego is the specialty of Trento. All of them combine to make life more pleasant for the visiting ocnophile.
RIVA DEL GARDA
The Italian lakes make an abbreviated appearance in this account, because Riva, on the northern extremity of Lake Garda, was once an Austrian lake port. But in 1919 it became a part of the Trentino-Ako Adige parcel and was handed over to Italy. Its arcaded architecture is quite Tyrolean, and a bit startling after the pure Italian feeling of the rest of Luke Garda. But it is pleasant and picturesque, particularly near the central piazza bordering the lake. All is quiet here, under the frowning presence of an austere clock tower. It is the Torre Apponale, and it has been surveying the scene for seven centuries. Excitement animates the old piazza when a fleet of busses suddenly arrives from the north. Tourists tue out of them, intent upon two objectives, one of which is a cup of hot chocolate and a bun on the café terrace. Then dozing cabmen, post-card salesmen, and orange vendors come to life, and mariners in small sailboats converge upon the scene, looking for paying passengers.
The most exciting thing about Riva, though, is its setting, for it is hemmed in by immense, almost perpendicular mountains of rock. By some miracle a passageway has been gouged out of this sheer cliff, and the motorist can drive into Riva through a genuinely awe-inspiring tunnel.
There is a certain amount of summer life in Riva, aided by a charming boat club open to visitors, swimming pool and all. The hotels, all estished for decades, are more than adequate. True, they are a bit touristy, and their food is international. However an overnight stay in any of four alberghi should be pleasant. These are the BELLAVISTA, EUROPA, HOVEL DU LAC and GRAND HOTEL RIVA.
TORBOLE
About two miles east of Riva, in another northern corner of Lake Garda, is this charming resort town, clean, radiant, inexpensive, and unsophisticated. Its view of the turquoise lake, hemmed in by near-vertical mountains, is most impressive. The hotels are simple and good and we report a pleasant twenty-four hours at the HOTEL PARAD1SO, overlooking the lake. There' not much to do in Tórbole—wait for the morning paper, stroll over to Riva, sail in a fishing boat with an orange sail, and enjoy good Italian meals on a vine-covered pergola at the water' edge. But perhaps that is just what you have in mind. If you've had a bit too much traveling, this might be just the place to rest.
TRENTO
From Lake Garda a valley road borders the river Adige and leads northward to the provincial capital of Trento, set in an amphitheater of craggy bills. This, the Tridemum of the ancient Romans, was once an Austrian frontier town. The city had previously gained fame as the setting for the historic Council of Trent which met here in 1545 to reorganize the Roman Catholic Church. More recently, and less attractively, it served as a rendezvous for Hitler and Mussolini to discuss, a bit prematurely, how they would divide Europe.
Architecturally Trento has a great deal to offer the traveler. Although it is otherwise somewhat austere, if has a light-hearted and amusing town square. This is the Piazza Cesare Battisti, named for a local patriot who was executed in 1918. In the center is an immense, grandiloquent eighteenth-century fountain of Neptune, its bronze creatures squirting water exuberantly in all directions. At one end of the square, silhouetted against the powder-blue hills, is a Romanesque cathedral, a bit stern perhaps, but solid mae for all that, and capped with an onion-bulb lower to lessen its severity. But we would call your attention particularly to the town' leading café, installed on this square in the Cusa Rella. This four-story arcaded building is completely covered with bold, colorful frescoes dating back to the sixteenth century. They may serve better thinks on Rome' Via Veneto, but this café takes the prize for picturesqueness!
One other building cries out to be seen. This is the crenellated Castello del Buon Consiglio, a vast, frowning episcopal stronghold built in the thirteenth century as a residence for the bishop-princes. Now it serves as a museum, and a fascinating one.
Trenro is less inspired as a hotel center than is Bolzano. Good accommodations, however, can be found at the large, raing GRANDE ALBERGO TRENTO or at the BRISTOL. As for restaurants, you will proby fare best at the RISTORANTI-FORST, on the Via Mazzurana, just a short distance from that fantastic frescoed café The beer is good here, and so are the local specialties.
BOLZANO
Lying in a river valley on the arterial road to the Brenner Pass, Bolzano is proby the best excursion center for travelers who wish to visit the Dolomites. Roads radiate from here, each affording a thrilling day' excursion in the mountains. There is another reason for our enthusiasm about Bolzano—its hotels are excellent and its food deserves a rating of at least A-minus. This is an old Tyrolean town, with modern Italian fringes. The houses in its center arc tall and Teutonic, topped with steep-roofed towers. Graceful ironwork protects the lower windows. and there are any number of small town squares splashing with fountains. We are particularly found of the Piazza delle Erbe, the market square. It is chock full of good things to cat, and the perfect milieu in which to work up an appetite.
That appetite, we are happy to announce, will be abundantly satisfied in many Bolzano restaurants, particularly in the tree-shaded terrace of the HOTEL GRIFONE. This busy hotel is located in the heart of the city on the Piazza Walther, and we have enjoyed many meals on its animated terrace. One luncheon, for example, consisted of boned salmon trout in aspic and a vegete salad with an exquisite mayonnaise, followed by a superb fritiaia with mushrooms and onions, a good local cheese, and delecte wild strawberries with ice cream. With a good local wine, caffè espresso and a thin flute of Strega to follow, the total, all service included, came to less than four dollars for two. The menu at the Grifone is bilingual, the other language being German. and if you want tangariscbes Gulascb or Wiener Schnitzel, there it is. If you happen here on the right evening, there is another attraction— band concert. It is a local band in the best Tyrolean tradition and costume. All the musicians wear long-sleevcd white shirts, waistcoats of black or red velvet, and broad green suspenders. Topping these costumes arc high-crowned Alpine hats, each gaily adorned with a fresh, spicy carnation. The music is exactly the kind one has the right to expect from musicians so attired.
There are other excellent hotels in Bolzano, and a bit quieter than those on the main piazza. The best of them is the ALBERGO LAURINO, situated near the railway station. It is a tranquil summer place, endowed with every comfort, and has most commende cooking.
MERANO
This wittering place on the fringe of the Dolomites is rapidly making its way back as one of the leading spas in Europe. Its mineral springs and radio. active waters are prime attractions to many people with all kinds of complexities and complaints, including precocious senility. Merano' cold radioactive waters do them immense good. I'm told that they even bring race horses up here to inhale the radioactive fumes, but maybe somebody is trying to pull my fetlock.
At all events, Merano teems with hotels, pensions, villas, and sanatoria, all bedecked with flowers. Orchards surround the town, which is famous for its apples, especially the Colville. Each apple is protected while maturing on the tree by a paper bag which preserves its delicate golden skin. It is pleasant to report that gastronomy plays a part in the “cure” at Merano. Patients indulge in fruit diets; they munch apples, pears, apricots, and particularly grapes. Among the two hundred varieties of grapes grown in the Alto-Adige, there-is a grape for almost every ailment for which man can produce symptoms.
There is an old town section of Merano, close packed and quaint, with steep-roofed town gates and tempting shops. German seems to be the favored language, but everybody speaks Italian in a pinch. The outer edges of the town arc literally sprinkled with good solid hotels in the Swiss and Austrian tradition. Merano doesn't sound precisely like a rendezvous for the “fast younger set.” However, these gentry proby will like the HO BRISTOL. built three years ago by an Italian syndicate (the same people who run the GRAND and the BAUER GRUNWALD in Venice), and as modern as tomorrow. All rooms have sheltered balconies furnished with a chaise longue and a low te on which to enjoy your breakfast. On the roof is a stunning innovation—a swimming pool with deck chairs for sunbathing. A dance floor and a view of the mountains arc thrown in without extra charge. The food is hotel food, of course, but well prepared and gratifying, especially if you order fresh mountain trout—and munch quantities of fruit.
ORTISEI
This is one of the best of many small mountain resorts which thrive on the road between Bolzano and the mountain passes. Located in the Val Gardena, Ortisei is a pronounced favorite, winter and summer, with sportsmen. From here funiculars and chair lifts hoist skiers to all sorts of jittery heights. During the warm months it is less exciting, perhaps, but far easier on the motorist. The favorite local industry is wood carving. Few visitors leave this place without acquiring some of the wooden statuettes, dolls, toys, and bottle stoppers shown in the shops.
There are several good hotels in this delightful valley town, the most appealing being the AOUILA. From its balconies, sparkling with geraniums, guests enjoy a thrilling view of the valley surrounded by those strange, purple-buff denticulated mountains. The hotel is spotless and spacious with a vast central staircase suite for a descending duchess. There are plenty of bathrooms, too, enormous ones. The meals are hotel meals, alas, contrived to please five nationalities at the same time. If can't be helped, I suppose. One ray of sunshine amidst the barley soup, chicken, peas, and pastry was a note bottle of Sandbichler, the dry red wine of the district.
BRESSANONE
One dramatic way to enter the Alto Adige is through the Brenner Pass from Austria. The motorist drives southward and soon comes to a point of decision at the town of Viplteno. If he forks to the right, he climbs a magnificent winding steep road which eventually leads to Merano. But if he forks to the left, he not only encounters an easy valley road but a rich gastronomic reward and the handsome valley town of Bressanone, as well.
There are grotesque and picturesque streets in this town, spiked with numerous church towers. It lies in a fertile river valley and is a noted health resort. However, for our epicurean purposts, Bressanone is famous for one thing—a hotel named after an elephant. The name of the HOTEL ELEFANTE harks back to the sad story of a live elephant who was presented as a gift to Maximilian of Austria, King of Bohemia, by John the Third of Portugal. The poor creature was shipped from Africa to Genoa by boat (this was back in 1551, and his name was Solomon) and then began the long trek on foot to Austria to join his new master. At Bressanone he spent several days recuperating from the brutal march over cold mountain roads, and stayed in the Stes of the leading town hotel, while his attendants put up in the best rooms. The owner of the alberga felt greatly honored, and soon changed the name of his estishment to Elefanre and had its façade adorned with large elephantine frescoes, which remain to this day. For centuries it has been famous. The Kings of Havana, Greece, and Prussia have stayed there. So have the Emperor and Empress of Austria, Fertile Molnár, and Max Rcinhardr. So have a great many gourmets in recent times. They arc attracted by one spectacular dish, the piatto elefanse, a glorified meat preparation which taxes one' power of description. It is intended for four people-a glittering mound of delicacies including roasts, smoked ribs, sausages, and tongue, surrounded by a squad of luscious vegetables and spiked with a silver skewer. It is certainly the most impressive dish in this province, and worth a wide detour. The Hotel Elefante at 4 Via Rio Bianco is also most comforte for an overnight stop. We have sketched its wrought-iron sign so that you can find it easily.
VENEZIA GIULIA
Austrian, Slav, and Hungarian over-tones are evident in the versatile cuisine of this far corner of Italy. A prime favorite is costoletta alla Viennese, which, of course, is the old standby Wiener Schnitzel, all dressed up in a Latin name. In Trieste, the Hungarian national dish, guiyás, is enthroned as a local favorite. Hut in Trieste goulash is concocted of lean beef rather than of veal or pork. The meat is cut into cubes and cooked with smoked bacon, many onions, and copious seasonings of paprika and ardent Hungarian pepper, with appetizing results. Neither of these dishes can claim great originality, of course, but it comes as a surprise to find them so perfected in this remote niche of Italy.
Trieste has a soup all its own, however. This is iota triestina, a sturdy potage contrived of beans, potatoes, and sauerkraut, boiled with pig' feet and ribs of roast pork, and flavored with leaves of laurel and cloves of garlic. There is obviously nothing timid about local Trieste cooking! Naturally enough, there is a special fish soup in this famous seaport. It is called brodetto di pescc alla triestina and contains a miscellany of Adriatic fish, with mullet, eel, and turbot heading the cast. Finally there is a specialty for you 10 seek our in the pastry shops, It is called presnitz alla triestina—puff pastry with almonds, candied oranges, nurs, and honey. When it is sprinkled with chocolate, the prestiitz becomes a puitzza.
Some palate little wines are produced on the slopes above Trieste, particularly in the neighborhood of [stria. The best of the reds is called Terrano, which we sampled in the Dante restaitrant in Trieste with gustatory joy. Another is Del Garso. If you prefer a sparkling red wine, there is one called Refosco, dry, fizzy, and a bit heady. It' also from (Stria. To end a good dinner in Trieste, a Prosecco is very much in order. This is a limpid, golden nectar, not too sweet, and just the thing to go with that flamboyant pastry.
UDINE
This pleasant metropolis on the road between Venice and Vienna is unde-servedly omitted from many tours and guidebooks and seldom visited. Udine once bristled with military brass, for it served as Italian GHQ from 1915 to 1917. The city was sacked but not badly damaged in the Italian retreat from nearby Caporetto, one of the most disusicful names in Italian history.
If you like your architecture served in one concentrated dose, you will find it all lumped gloriously together in Udine' Piazza della Liberià. Monumental buildings burst out all over the place. There is the Palazzo Civico, a glittering mae structure built in the Venetian style—Ornate as a wedding cake, and much more satisfying. Across the way is the faintly Florentine Laggia of San Giovanni, dominated by a clock tower whose crowning glory is a duo of bronze gentlemen who strike a large bell on each quarter hour. Scattered nearby arc two imposing Venetian columns, a rotund fountain, and assorted mae statues of muscular Roman giants. Above it all looms the immense bulk of the Castello, now converted into a museum. This is one of the spots in Italy for which we reserve the much-abused word “breath-taking.” We can't say as much for the hotel accommodations or the restaurant food. but both are adequate. One good hotel is the EUROPA, down by the railway station. We chose the quieter ITALIA, located on the pleasant Piazza XX Settembre in the heart of the city. The rooms were all right. and dinner was served under the trees on a little terrace. The local specialties here are minestrone made with the local beans, Montasio cheese, polenta, and the famous ham of San Danielc.
PORDENONE
This ancient town on the road from Venice to Udine is listed principally for enthusiasts of Lombard Gothic architecture, The immense brick campanile of its cathedral, curved subtly at the top and capped by an octagonal spire, is one of the unheralded treasures of the region. Another is the ancient town hall, also of time-weathered brick. Pordenone is known principally as the birthplace of the painter Giovanni Licinio (1485-1539). called in the museum world “11 Pordcnune.” If yon happen to arrive line in the day, there is a suite hotel here, the ALBERGO Mo-DiiRNtx Pordenooe suffered cruelly during the last war. but is rebuilding rapidly.
AQUILEIA
This sleepy agricultural village in the flat lowlands below Udine is but a mine, somnolent shadow of its former self. Once it was a magnificent seaport, one of the four greatest cities of the Empire. and a favorite residence of the Emperor Augustus. Recent excavations have brought to light i(s extensive stone ducks, as well as a Roman forum whose mae columns now compere with neighboring cypresses for the traveler' appreciative attention.
Aquileia' greatest treasure, however. is its ninth-century basilica, an astounding structure recalling that later this was an ecclesiastical stronghold. It has the incredible good fortune to be built over mosaic pavements dating back to the fourth century and still in near-perfect condition. The mosaics depict many familiar scenes. Jonah' encounter with the whale among them. Beside the inspiring basilica stands an immense detached campanile, built partly by depleting the neighboring amphitheater-a lofty boneyard of Roman stones. There is a very touching cemetery nearby, shaded by olive trees. It contains the remains of several unknown Italian soldiers.
A pensive, haunting calm pervades the site of this forgotten seaport, Umbrella pines and cypresses provide shade for the relatively few visitors who linger awhile. The epicurean possibilities of the village are about exhausted when you buy an ice cream sandwich from a drowsing vendor. Hut never mind. Bring a picnic lunch or go hungry—but don't miss the richest archaeological experience in this part of Italy!
GRADO
If you motor seven miles south of Aquileia, you come to another ancient seaport Grado, however, conceals its venere origin under the trappings of a modern summer resort, and a Bikini is far more in keeping with the place than an archaeologist' shovel. But if you persist, you will find Roman and Byzantine columns in its cathedral.
Grado is an unsophisticated fishing port, filled with vacationers in search of clean sand and sunshine. The local municipality deserves a vote of thanks for closing off the center of the town to motor traffic; you strollisslully through its streets, secure in the knowledge that no baby Fiat can run you down, no sputtering Vespa can troe your benign calm. It is pleasant to sir in the brightly lighted main street after dinner and to gaze at the passing throng. It is not a worldly pageant—just family groups, sailors, naval officers, and assort' cd tourists.
There is a picturesque fishing port with a full complement of wooden vessels. On the prow of each are two local symbols, wood carvings which resee enormous snails. On the hot August day when we visited Grado, the seafaring men wen-not dedicated to piscatorial pursuits. Instead they sat bare-foot on the decks under russet awnings and played cards. Obviously, this is a nice, relaxing place. There arc two accepte hotels along the beach, the ASTORIA and the ESPLANADE. The former has a night club, a jittery jazz sextet, and ample parking space, all in season.
Leaving Grado the next morning we saw a bilingual sign which read: AU REVOIR-LET US SEE AGAIN. We intend to accept the invitation!
TRIESTE
Occupying a choice setting at the northern extremity of rhe Adriatic and serving as its principal port, Trieste has always been a prize coveted by neighboring countries. For centuries it was the port of Austria. But the Romans had it long before that, and have left the remains of an amphitheater as proof of their presence. Today the Italian colors fly from its gleaming flagpoles, following the agreement made with Jugoslavia in 1954. It is now a far more pleasant and relaxed place than it was as a free city under military supervision.
Many transatlantic vessels doc at at Trieste, so there is a chance that you may find yourself one day in this gusty, bustling city of a quarter million and more. It is well worth a visit, but don't forget to lake along a light coat. In this top pocket of the Adriatic, there is a high wind which sometimes sweeps through Trieste so vigorously that ropes have to be strung along the trees to help struggling pedestrians.
You will find that the most tranquil and beguiling spot in this teeming metropolis is on a tree-covered hilltop, crowned by an ancient castello. From this lofty eminence you have a superb view of the close-packed city and its busy harbor, without hearing all its clatter. Nearby is the basilica of San Giusto, built on the ruins of a Roman temple. Its rose window is lovely, and its door-way. flanked by Roman sarcophagi, most inviting. Nearby is a partially restored forum.
If this constitutes the touristic high spot of Trieste, we also have a glowing nominee for its gastronomic pinnacle. This is the restaurant called DA DANTE, a large, animated, ambitious estishment at 12 via Carducci. The menu which confronts the eager diner is awe-inspiring in length—more than twenty pasta preparations, fifteen Adriatic fish dishes, and over thirty meats. We had the good fortune to be guided through this maze of dishes by a qualified expert. He recommended two specialties that were so good that we promptly pass the tip on to you. Both delicacies were prepared at the tc by a gifted waiter-cook. The sour nose lasagne di Mamma kosa were thin extra-wide noodles mixed in a chafing dish in butter with bits of ham and cheese, and finally with thick cream. Filatto di bue vornoff was a fine filet of beef browned in butter, to which was added a mixture of mustard, lemon juice, a trickle of Worcester-shire sauce, then Sherry and finally brandy. The sauce wasended and the whole thing ignited in another spray of brandy. With a slice of marrow on top. and a loyal bottle of Terrano, it was a dish to remember.
Trieste has two good hotels, both accustomed to coping with Anglo-Saxon needs. They should be, after catering to British and American officers for years. The EXCELSIOR PALACE faces the harbor near the maritime station, while another familiar JOLLY HOTEL, a large and luxurious one this time, is near the railway station.
Here is a quintet of recipes from the northern Italian provinces, among them the hare, goulash, and gnoccbi specialtics already mentioned. They are adapted to your American kitchen, and should lend your menus pleasant variety.
Spezzatino di Manzo (Tyrolean Goulash)
In an iron pot brown I chopped onion in 2 teaspoons lard or bacon fat and 2 teaspoons olive oil. Add ½ teaspoon paprika and 1 teaspoon vinegar. Add 2 pounds beef cut into ¾-inch cubes, salt and pepper, 1 clove garlic, chopped, the rind of ½ lemon, chopped, a good pinch each of marjoram and aniseed, and 1 tespoon tomato paste. Cook, stirring, for several minutes, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon Hour, and cook until the sauce is browned. Add 1 ½ tups hot water or stock. Cover the pot and simmer the broth over low heat until the meat is tender, adding more liquid if necessary.
Gnoccbi di Pane alla Tirolese (Tyrolean Bread Dumplings)
In 1 generous tespoon of butter brown 1 medium onion, chopped. Add 1 tespoon parsley, finely minced. Remove the pan from the fire and stir in 3 cups diced bread and ½ cup finely minted baton. Add 1 egg and ½ cup milk beaten together, sprinkle with 1/3 tup flour and a pinch of salt, and mix well. Shape the mixture into bulls the size of plums and pouch the dumplings in simmering water for 20 to 25 minutes. Drain well and pour over them a little hot gravy.
Lepre alla Montanara (Hare Stew Mountain Style)
Make a marinade of 1 cup red wine, the peel of ½ lemon, chopped, 1 tablespoon raisins, 1 tespoon pine nuts, ¼ teaspoon cinnamon, 4 cloves, and 1 ½ teaspoons sugar. In this marinate for 'i or 5 hours the liver, lungs, and heart of a wild hare. Cut the hare into 6 pieces, dredge the pieces with Dour, and brown them on all sides in butter with I onion, chopped, and 2 teaspoons diced baton. Add the marinated innards, the unstrained marinade, and salt and pepper. Covet the kettle and simmer the stew gently until the meat is tender, adding a little hot water as necessary.
Serve the stew with polenta and a green salad.
Pomodori alla Veneziana (Venetian Tomatoes)
Peel 12 firm tomatoes of uniform size, cut a slice from the stem end of each, and remove the seeds.
In a saucepan brown 1 small onion, chopped, in 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 teaspoon butter. Add 1 clove garlic, mashed, 1 tespoon parsley, 2 mushrooms, 4 anchovies, chopped, and salt and pepper. Simmer the sauce for 5 minutes and add 12 oysters and 3 teaspoons concentrated stock. Bring the sauce to a boil. Arrange the prepared tomatoes in a buttered baking dish and stuff them with the mixture. topping each with an oyster. Sprinkle with a few drops of lemon juice and some bread crumbs. Brown the topping in the oven and serve at once.
Mora in Camicia (Moor in a Shirt)
Cream well together 4 teaspoons butter and 4 teaspoons granulated sugar. Add 1/8 pound semisweet chocolate that has been melted slowly with a few drops of water. Stir in 3 egg yolks. Fold in the egg whiles, beaten stiff. A teaspoons ground almonds, and 6 teaspoons fine bread crumbs. Fill 6 custard cups with the mixture, place the cups in a pan of hot water, and bake about 40 minutes in a medium oven. Chill well.
To serve, unmold the dessert and top each serving with a spoonful of whipped cream.