No single food is more essential to French cookery than the egg. The French housewife, faced with a culinary emergency, does not, like her American counterpart, open a can of tuna fish or baked beans. Instead, she breaks some eggs into a bowl and whips up an omelette. The cuisinière in a fine French home, faced with leftover chicken to prepare for luncheon, automatically reaches for the eggs, and the chicken becomes a soufflé do volatile à la feme, a creamy egg concoction puffed to feather lightness under a golden-brown crust.
When I went back to France a couple of years ago, I spent some happy hours reminiscing with my brother Lucien, who is chef des cuisines of that top-ranking Paris hotel, the Plaza-Athénée. I wanted to give a dinner party at the hotel for the American friends who accompanied me to Paris, so I asked Lucien to suggest for the menu one of his own well-known spécialités. He promptly replied. “Soufflé do bomard.” Soufflé do bomard, I thought to myself with a smile. Certainly no New York chef would be likely to make that suggestion!
I must digress for a moment to tell you about the PlazaArthénée. Have you ever been in Paris in April, when the horse-chestnut trees are in their final, vulnerable full bloom and each whisper of the spring breeze sends the petals drifting lazily to the ground? To me, after so many years of New York's hustle and bustle, the gentle fluttering of those petals was symbolic of the relaxed, unharried air of dinnertime in France. In the main dining room of the Plaza-Athénée the same mood prevails. The decor breathes leisure and elegance. High ceilings and heavy rugs discourage noise; three magnificent gold and-crystal chandeliers light the gold damask hangings that cover the window wall; perfectly appointed tables are gay with flowers and gleaming with silver and crystal. As I stood in the doorway of this charming salon and drank in every detail of the scene, I was convinced again that this is one of the loveliest dining rooms in all Paris. Mais, revenons à nos Soufflés. You will want to know what menu we finally decided upon for my party. I still have my copy of the menu, which the Plaza-Athénée, as is the custom of many French hotels of its kind, printed for us as a souvenir of the occasion.
Germiny en Tasse
Pallettes Diablées
Soufflé de Homard Plaza-Athénée
Baron do Pauillac Princesse
Salade de Chicorée aux Fines Herbes
Coeur de Jeannette
Mignaraises
If you have not the good fortune to enjoy the perfect combination of Paris in April, the gold-and-white salon of the Plazn-Athénée; and Lucien's soufflé do homard, you can at least enjoy, as often as you wish and whenever you wish, entree Soufflés. I predict that you will find them more convenient to serve than dessert Soufflés, particularly if you must be both host and cook. An entrée Soufflé can be served at the beginning of the meal, instead of an appetizer or a soup, or as a second course, after the soup. In either case, the soufflé can be slipped into the oven just before the guests come to the table, and you know they will be waiting for it when it comes out, cooked à point. The timing of a dessert Soufflé is much more difficult, since it depends so much upon the rate of the meal's progress.
It is unfortunate that Soufflés have been associated so closely with the intricate mysteries of haute cuisine that many people hesitate to attempt them. Soufflés have been labeled “overly rich,” “very expensive,” and “difficult to make,” but none of these accusations is true. Combine a thick bechamel with a purée of fish, vegetables, poultry or whatever you have, lighten it with eggs, bake it—et voila, a Soufflé. What could be more light and appetizing? And as for the cost, such a soufflé costs hardly more than the cereal, milk, and eggs that make the ordinary breakfast. Furthermore, when you have made Several soufflés, have acquired the “feel” of the mixture, and know the idiosyncrasies of your own oven and how they affect the baking of a Soufflé, the technique of making successful Soufflés becomes second nature.
In classic cuisine, entree Soufflés appear on the menu in several roles. They make a much-favored main course for a light luncheon or supper. At the old Ritz in New York, many guests who lived in Carlton House and ordered their meals from the Ritz kitchen made a habit of lunching at least once a week on a fish, mushroom, or cheese Soufflé. A clear soup of some kind would start the meal and fruit dessert end it; these made a combination hard to surpass as well as one superbly satisfying, yet light and refreshing. In a long dinner menu, on the other hand, the same Soufflés Serve as a first course or as a petite entrée. At my Plaza-Athénée dinner, the Soufflé de bomord was fish course and petite entrée at one and the same time, since it came to the table between the soup and the baron of lamb with its elaborate vegetable garniture.
Our “Classes in Classic Cuisine” for September, which we devoted to dessert soufflés, covered the basic instructions for making Soufflés. Most of this information, which I suggest you reread before attempting the recipes that follow, applies equally well to the entree soufflés. But there are some differences. In the first place, practically all entree Soufflés are made with a thick bechamel to which is added a puree of whatever food is being used. Cheese Soufflés are an exception, since they arc sometimes thickened with bread crumbs, which should be light and fresh so that they combine with the milk to make a smooth, creamy panade. The kind of wet, sticky bread that refuses to crumble will not do for this purpose. These soufflés baked in small ramekins make an excellent first course. Cheese Soufflés made with farina are a trifle heartier, and eminently suitable for a family luncheon. You will notice that I make cheese Soufflés with grated Parmesan or dry Swiss cheese. Cheeses of the Cheddar type are so rich in fat that they tend to make the Soufflé heavy, I think.
The puree may be made in different ways. Moist foods, like tomatoes, may be cooked to make a paste. Spinach and similar vegetables should be forced through a sieve. Chicken and mushrooms are chopped very, very fine, and may be forced through a sieve for a smoother result. There is one exception to the rule that Soufflés are made with a puree. You cannot make a light and delicate Soufflé by mixing coarse particles of food into the Soufflé batter, but sometimes better flavor and a delightful contrast of texture results if the food is cut into small, thin slices, as the lobster is in the soufflé de bomard. Or the larger bits of food, combined with a thick sauce, may be poured first into the dish, and the soufflé batter poured over the mixture.
The egg yolks should be beaten just enough to mix them thoroughly. The egg whites should be stiff, but nor dry; stop whipping them when they form glistening, moist-looking peaks.
Entree Soufflés take more time to bake than sweet Soufflés, because the baiter is denser than that used for dessert soufflés. The top crust should tux form liefore the mixture has reached its maximum volume and a crust has formed on the bottom of the dish. That is why I bake the Soufflé on the bottom of the oven for the first eight or nine minutes, and then slip a rack under it or move the dish up to a rack for the balance of the cooking time, But you will want to experiment with your oven to discover its eccentricities, so that you can be certain of the rime and temperature requirements that apply.
Soufflé de Tomates (Tomato Soufflé)
Chop coarsely 5 or 6 large ripe tomatoes. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a saucepan, add the tomatoes, and cook them until all the liquid has cooked away and the mixture is quite thick. Strain the mixture and discard skin and seeds. Add 3 tablespoons canned tomato paste, 1 tablespoon sugar, and ½ teaspoon salt, and bring the mixture to a boil. Make a thick bechamel sauce as follows: Melt 2 tablespoons butter, add 3 tablespoons flour, and cook, stirring, until the roux starts to turn golden. Stir in I cup hot milk and cook the sauce for about 5 minutes, or until it is very thick, stirring it constantly with a whip. Combine this with the tomato mixture and 2 tablespoons Parmesan or dry Swiss cheese, Beat 5 egg yolks, add them to the tomato mixture, and heat all together just to the boiling point, stirring briskly. Do not allow the mixture to boil. Remove the pan from the heat and continue to stir for a few minutes longer. Beat 5 egg whites stiff but not dry. Fold into the mixture thoroughly and carefully one-fourth of the beaten egg whiles and add the remaining egg whites, cutting them in lightly and completely by raising and folding the mixture over and over. Pour the batter into a buttered and floured Soufflé mold and run your forefinger to the depth of ½ inch around the inside of the mold to separate the batter from the dish. Bake the Soufflé in a moderate oven (350° P.) for 25 to 30 minutes.
soufflé au Fromage (Cheese Soufflé)
Melt 4 tablespoons sweet butter in a saucepan, stir in ½ cup flour, and cook the roux until it starts to turn golden. Add 2 cups hot milk, stirring well with a whip, return the sauce to the heat, and cook it, stirring constantly, for about 5 minutes, or until it is very thick. Add ½ teaspoon salt, a little pepper, and a little nutmeg, and remove the pan from the heat. Beat 5 egg yolks until light, combine them with the sauce, and heat the mixture just to the boiling point, stirring briskly. Do not allow it to boil. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in 1 cup grated Parmesan or dry Swiss cheese. Beat 5 or 6 egg whites stiff but not dry. Fold into the mixture thoroughly carefully one-fourth of the beaten egg whites and add the remaining egg whites, cutting them in lightly and completely by raising and folding the mixture over and over. Pour the batter into 2 small molds, buttered and floured, and bake the Soufflés in a moderate oven (350° F.) for 25 to 30 minutes, or until they are pulled and lightly browned. If desired, very thin diamond-shaped slices of Swiss cheese can be arranged in a circle on the Soufflé. As the soufflé bakes, they will melt and form a decorative design in the crusty surface.
Petits Soufflés an Fromage (Small Cheese Soufflés)
Bring to a boil 1 cup milk, add 2 cups fresh white bread crumbs, and mix all Together well to make a thick panade. If necessary, add a few more crumbs. Beat in 5 egg yolks, one at a time. Add 1 tablespoon butter and 1 cup grated Parmesan or dry Swiss cheese. Beat 5 egg whites stiff but not dry. Fold into the mixture thoroughly and carefully about one-fourth of the egg whites and add the remaining egg whites, cutting them in lightly and completely by raising and folding the mixture over and over. Fill buttered individual molds twothirds full with the batter and sprinkle them with a little grated cheese. Set the molds in a pan of boiling water and bake the Soufflés in a moderately hot oven (375° F.) for 12 to 15 minutes, or until they are puffed and golden brown.
Soufflé de Howard Plaza-Athénée (Plaza-Atbénée Lobster Soufflé)
Remove the claws and tails from 3 lobsters, each weighing 1 ¾ to 2 pounds, and with a large heavy knife divide each of the body sections into three or four pieces. In a large saucepan make the following vegetable mirepoix: Melt 2 tablespoons butter, add 1 medium carrot cut in fine dice, 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion, and 1 tablespoon chopped chives. Cook the mirepoix over very low heat until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Add 1 tablespoon chopped parsley and remove the pan from the heat.
Sprinkle the cut-up lobsters with salt and pepper. in a large shallow pan, Cook them in ½ cup very hot salad oil, turning them to cook all sides evenly. Put the lobster pieces—they will be red—on top of the mirepoix and sprinkle them with 1 teaspoon paprika. Mix all together and add 2 tablespoons Cognac, ½ cup dry white wine, and 1 cup heavy cream. Bring the sauce to a boil and cook the lobsters for 18 to 20 minutes. Remove the lobsters from the pan, carefully separate the meat from the shells, and cut the meat into slices ¼ inch thick. Over high heat reduce the liquid remaining in the pan to about half the original quantity. Add 1 cup cream sauce. 3 tablespoons heavy cream, and 3 tablespoons dry Sherry. Strain the sauce, making sure that no fine bits of shell get through the sieve, and combine half of it with the lobster meat. Butter a pair of 1-quart molds and divide the lobster mixture between them. Set the rest of the sauce aside to keep warm.
Prepare a cheese soufflé mixture as follows: Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan, add ¼ cup flour, and cook the roux until it starts to turn golden. Stir in ¾ cup hot milk and cook for about 5 minutes, or until the sauce is very thick, stirring constantly. Add ½ teaspoon salt and a little cayenne pepper. Heat 5 egg yolks well, combine them with the first mixture, and heat all together just to the boiling point, stirring briskly. Do not allow the sauce to boil. Add 5/4 cup grated Parmesan or dry Swiss cheese. Ileal 5 egg whites stiff but not dry. Fold into the mixture thoroughly and carefully one-fourth of the beaten egg whites and add the remaining egg whites, cutting 'them in lightly and completely by raising and folding the mixture over and over.
Spoon the cheese Soufflé mixture over the lobster-and-sauce mixture in the molds. Bake the soufflés in a moderate oven (350° F.) for 18 to 20 minutes, or until they are puffed and golden brown. To serve, put some of the top of the Soufflé on one side of each plate and some of the lobster mixture from the bottom on the other side. Pass the reserved lobster sauce separately.
Soufflé aux Champignons (Musbroom Soufflé)
Clean ½ pound fresh mushrooms, drain them thoroughly and dry them on a towel. Chop the mushrooms very finely—they should be almost a puree. Put them in a saucepan with 1 cup milk, bring the milk to a boil, and cook the mixture slowly for 10 to 15 minutes. In another saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons butter, add 3 tablespoons flour, and cook the mux until it starts to turn golden. Stir in the hot milk-and-mushroom mixture. Return the pan to the heat and cook the sauce, stirring constantly, for about 5 minutes. Season the sauce with ½ teaspoon salt, a little pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. Beat 5 egg yolks light and add them to the mushroom mixture. Heat the mixture to the boiling point, but do not let it boil. Remove the pan from the heat and Stir the sauce for a few minutes as it cools. Beat 5 egg whiles stiff but not dry. Fold into the mixture thoroughly and carefully one-fourth of the beaten egg whites and add the remaining egg whites, cutting them in lightly and completely by raising and folding the mixture over and over. Pour the butter Into a buttered and floured mold and bake the soufflé' in a moderate oven (350° F.) for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the Soufflé is puffed and golden brown.
Soufflé de Volatile à la Reine (Chicken Soufflé)
Chop very finely 1 ½ to 2 cups cooked chicken, using all white meat or a mixture of white meat and the more tender parts of the dark meat. The meat may be rubbed through a sieve; it should be as fine as a puree. Prepare a thick bechamel as follows: Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan. add 3 tablespoons flour, and cook the roux until it starts to turn golden. Stir in 1 cup hot milk. combining it with a whip Return the pan to the heat and cook the sauce for about 5 minutes, or until it is very thick, stirring it constantly with the whip. Season the sauce with grated nutmeg. Add the chicken and 4 egg yolks, beaten light. Correct the seasoning with salt. Beat 4 egg whites stiff but not dry. Fold into the mixture thoroughly and carefully one-fourth of the beaten egg whites and add the remaining egg whites, cutting them in lightly and completely by raising and folding the mixture over and over. Pour the batter into a buttered and floured mold and bake the Soufflé in a moderate oven (350° P.) for 25 to 30 minutes.
Chicken Soufflé Virginia
Follow the recipe for chicken Soufflé. but use 1 ¼ cups very finely chopped chicken and ½ cup very finely chopped Virginia ham.
Soufflé d'Epinards aux Oeufs Pocbes {Spinach Soufflé with Poached Eggs)
Cook 3 pounds well-washed spinach in 1 quart boiling salted water for 10 to 12 minutes. Drain the spinach, pressing out as much water as possible, chop it very fine, drain it again, and rub it through a sieve. There should be about 1 cup thick spinach puree. Melt 1 ½ tablespoons butter in a saucepan and add the spinach puree. Season with ½ teaspoon salt, a little pepper, and a little grated nutmeg. Cook the puree over low hear, stirring it constantly, until all the moisture cooks away. In another pan, melt 2 ½ tablespoons butler, add 3 tablespoons Hour, and cook the roux until if starts to turn golden. Stir in 1 ¼ cups hot milk, return the pan to the heat, and cook the sauce for 8 to 10 minutes, until i( is very thick, stirring it constantly with a whip. Beat 6 egg yolks, combine them with the milk mixture, and heat all together just to the boiling point. Do not allow the mixture to boil. Add the spinach puree. Beat 6 egg whites stiff but not dry. Fold into the mixture thoroughly and carefully one-fourth of the beaten egg whites and add the remaining egg whites, cutting them in lightly and completely by raising and folding the mixture over and over. Spread about one-third of the batter in the bottom of a buttered and floured mold and arrange 6 well-drained punched eggs on it. Cover the eggs with the remaining Soufflé mixture. Bake the Soufflé in a moderate oven (350° F.) for 25 to 30 minutes, or until it puffs and browns. To serve, cut down through the Soufflé with a spoon so that one egg is included in each serving.
Sonfflé de Poisson (Fish Soufflé)
Discard the skin and bones from 2 cups leftover cooked fish and chop the flesh very finely. Heat the fish in 1 tablespoon butter and force it through a fine sieve to make a puree. Make a thick bechamel sauce as follows: Melt 2 tablespoons butter, add 3 tablespoons flour, and cook the roux until it starts to turn golden. Stir in 1 cup hot milk, return the pan to the heat, and cook the sauce for about 5 minutes, or until it is very thick, stirring it constantly with a whip. Season the sauce with ½ teaspoon salt and a little pepper. Add the fish puree. Beat 4 egg yolks and combine them with the fish-and-sauce mixture. Heat all together just to the boiling point, stirring briskly, but do not allow the mixture to boil. Cool the mixture to lukewarm. Beat 4 egg whites stiff but not dry. Fold into the mixture thoroughly and carefully one-fourth of the beaten egg whites and add the remaining egg whites, cutting them in lightly and completely by raising and folding the mixture over and over. Pour the batter into a buttered and floured mold and bake the Soufflé in a moderate oven (350° F.) for 25 to 30 minutes. The Soufflé may be baked in individual molds—15 to18 minutes is the baking time in this case.