When the New York World's Fair opened in the spring of 1939, the old New York Ritz, always a haven for the international set, hummed with activity, At every meal our dining rooms were crowded to the doors with distinguished foreign guests, most of them gourmets of no mean stature. In the kitchen we found that the popularity of the standard American favorites like broiled steak and chicken was giving way, if only temporarily, to Continental dishes made with sweetbreads, kidneys, and tripe!
I had learned in my very first months at the Ritz, nearly thirty years earlier, that the meat specialties, or les abats, as we call them in France, were ordinarily not too well received by :he average American, although European connoisseurs consider them the greatest of delicacies. I was to learn that most Americans do not regularly use these variety meats in their homes and that American children do not have the opportunity to learn to like this very fine and very nutritious kind of food.
The situation is very different in Europe, of course. For instance, two of our English guests, in New York to supervise the final details at the British Pavilion, learned that I had once worked at the London Ritz, and one day they came to me with a special request They were homesick for a real English steak and kidney pie. I took no chances on disappointing the visiting Englishmen. I went into the kitchen myself and made steak and kidney pie exactly as I had been taught to by an English cook. Apparently I had not forgotten my lesson, because, after they had enjoyed the pie, the gentlemen came to compliment me and to ask that I prepare identical pies for a dinner which was to be given for the Pavilion's board of directors on opening day. They insisted that I bake the pies in English china baking dishes, “None of your French clay accessories, Monsieur Louis,” they warned me.
When the great day came and the pies were ready in their deep bowls, I had them packed in strong canons and put aside for the messengers who were to transport them to the Fair grounds. Hut the messenger boys turned out to be my two distinguished guests. Each of them carried off his carton as proudly as if it contained the British crown jewels!
The first of the variety meats, for the gourmet, is sweetbreads. This subject was exhaustively dealt with in GOURMET for September, 1955, so that I should like to go on to kidneys which, unlike sweetbreads, vary considerably in size and tenderness.
The beef kidney is, of course, the largest, but also the least delicate. It will serve two or three people. Veal kidneys are smaller, and one makes a portion. while two lamb or mutton kidneys are needed to serve one person. The kidney is surrounded by fat, and the suet from the beef kidney is considered ore of the best animal fats for cooking. In England, kidney suet is an indispensable part of Christmas puddings and dumplings. A thin layer of fat is left on veal and beef kidneys, but the fat of lamb and mutton kidneys is trimmed off and discarded, because its strong flavor is not acceptable. Lamb and mutton kidneys have a thin skin under the fat, and this too is pulled off and discarded.
Kidneys may be braised in the oven; in this case, they are left whole, and the time given for cooking lakes into account the kind of kidney and its size. A chef tests a whole kidney by piercing it with a kitchen fork. After the fork has been in the kidney for a few minutes, he touches it to his tongue; if the fork is hot, the kidney is done. Long cooking toughens kidneys. On the top of the stove, kidneys are cooked at high heat for a short time. When I serve kidneys in a sauce, I find that their tenderness and delicacy of flavor are assured if I first make the sauce, then cut the kidneys into small pieces and saute them quickly in good fat over a high flame, tossing them so that they cook on all sides. When they are lightly browned, I turn them into a strainer and drain off the cooking fat. Then I add them to the sauce and bring the sauce just to the boiling point, to reheat them.
Steak and Kidney Pie
Cut in small dice 1 pound tender beef and A veal kidneys. Combine the meats and add 2 hard-cooked eggs, finely chopped, 8 mushrooms, peeled and sliced, 1 onion, finely chopped, 1 teaspoon chopped parsley, ½ teaspoon salt, a dash of pepper, ¼ cup dry sherry or Madeira. 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce and 1 cup simple brown sauce. Turn the mixture into a deep casserole, cover it with puff paste (May, 1955) and bake it in a moderate oven (350° F.) for about 1 hour, or until the top is browned and the meat tender.
Simple Brown Sauce
In a saucepan brown very lightly 1 finely chopped onion in 2 tablespoons fat. Add 2 tablespoons flour and cook, stirring, until the roux is brown. Add 2 cups stock and 3 tablespoons tomato purée and cook, stirring, until (he sauce thickens. Continue to cook the sauce until it is reduced to about 1 cup. Season to taste.
Rognons de Veau Grillés (Broiled Veal Kidneys)
Trim all but a thin layer of fat from 4 veal kidneys, split them, season with salt and pepper and put them on skewers to keep them flat. Brush the kidneys with melted butter and in a preheated broiler broil them about 5 inches from the heat for about 8 minutes on each side. Serve the kidneys with broiled bacon or ham and broiled mushrooms or tomatoes, and with maitre d'hôtel butler (May, 1955) or brown deviled sauce (April, 1955).
Rognons d' Agneau Grillés (Broiled Lamb Kidneys)
Trim all the fat from A lamb kidneys and prepare them for broiling as you would veal kidneys. Lamb kidneys should be cooked at high heat and for a shorter time than veal kidneys—5 minutes on each side, 3 inches from the flame, should be enough. Serve like veal kidneys.
Ragoût de Rognons d' Agneau (Lamb Kidney Stew)
Trim the fat from 8 to 10 lamb kidneys. remove the skin, and cut the kidneys into quarters. Season them with salt and pepper. In a shallow pan heat 3 tablespoons fat and add the kidneys. Cook them over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Pur the kidneys in a colander to drain. Discard the fat from the pan and without washing the pan add to it 2 tablespoons butter, 10 or 12 small mushrooms and 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot. Cook these for a few minutes, until the shallot is soft. Add 1 ½ tablespoons flour and continue to cook the roux until it takes on a little color. Add ½ cup cooked tomatoes and ½ cup simple brown sauce (page 19) and bring the sauce to a boil, stirring it constantly until it thickens. Cook the sauce slowly for about 10 minutes, stirring it occasionally. Correct the seasoning and add ¼ cup sherry or Madeira. Add the kidneys and heat them thoroughly, but do not allow the sauce to boil. Serve the stew sprinkled with chopped parsley.
Rognons de Veau Soutés Badoise (Sautéed Veal Kidneys)
Remove the membrane and trim the surplus fat from A veal kidneys, cut the kidneys in thin slices and season them with salt and pepper. Melt enough of the kidney fat to cover the bottom of a shallow pan. Cook the sliced kidneys in the hot fat over high heat for 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the kidneys from the fire and drain them in a colander. Discard the fat from the pan. but do not wash the pan. To the pan add 2 tablespoons butter and ½ pound sliced mushrooms, and cook the mushrooms until they are tender. Add 1 tablespoon chopped shallot and cook for 2 minutes longer. Add 3/8 cup dry white wine and 1 cup brown sauce (April, 1955). Bring the mixture to a boil and add 1 teaspoon each of chopped parsley, tarragon and chervil, and ½ teaspoon chopped chives. Add 1 tablespoon butter and with a circular motion of the pan swirl the butter until it melts. Return the kidneys to the sauce and reheat them, but do not let the sauce boil.
For many years liver was infrequently or never seen upon the dinner table in the majority of American homes, but since the discovery of its extraordinarily high nutritional value it has become increasingly popular. Today liver is regularly found on both home and restaurant menus. Calf's liver is usually sautéed or broiled. It should nor be overcooked. The exact cooking time, however, depends on whether you like it rare, medium, or well done. Long topof-the-stove cooking will toughen liver just as it toughens kidneys. In France, the whole liver is often braised in red wine, a very practical and simple way to prepare liver for a large family. If there is any left over, it can be used for sandwiches or served cold with a salad. Chicken livers are usually broiled with mushrooms on skewers or sautéed in butter, or cooked in cither of these ways and served with Madeira sauce in the center of a ring of cooked rice. Pork liver is less expensive than calf's liver and not as strong in flavor as beef liver. It makes an excellent pâté.
Foie de Veau Grillé (Broiled Calf's Liver)
Dip thin slices of calf's liver in seasoned flour and arrange them on a baking sheet. Brush the meat with melted butter. Broil the slices for A minutes about 5 inches from the flame, turn them, and broil for 4 minutes on the other side. Serve with crisp bacon.
Foie de Veau Braisé (Braised Calf's Liver)
Have the butcher lard a whole calf's liver with strips of fat salt pork. In a deep pan just large enough to hold the liver put 1 tablespoon butter. Add 2 medium onions, sliced, 2 carrots, sliced, 1 clove garlic, and a fagot made by tying together 1 stalk of celery, A sprigs of parsley, 1 small bay leaf and 4 sprig of thyme. In another pan heat 2 tablespoons butter or suet, and in it brown the liver on all sides. Put the liver on the vegetables and cook them together over low heat until the onions and carrots start to brown.
Meanwhile, add 2 tablespoons flour to the fat in the pan in which the liver was browned and cook the roux for a few minutes, stirring it constantly. Add 2 cups red wine and 1 cup water or stock, and cook, stirring, until the sauce is smooth. Strain the sauce over the liver. If necessary, add water to cover the liver well. Cover the pan and braise the liver in a moderate oven (375° F.) for 2 to 2 ½ hours, turning it occasionally. Remove the liver to a serving dish. If the liquid has not already cooked down to about half the original quantity, reduce it further. Strain the sauce, skim off the fat, correct the seasoning, and serve the sauce with the liver.
Foies de Volaille en Brochette (Skewered Chicken Livers)
Begin each skewer arrangement with a cooked mushroom cap and fill the skewers with alternating halves of chicken livers and squares of bacon and a final cooked mushroom cap. Roll the skewers in flour, then in oil, and broil them until lightly browned, 4 or 5 inches from the flame, turning each brochette once or twice.
Sautéed Calf's Liver with Bacon
In a skillet saute 2 slices of bacon for each portion of calf's liver. Cook the bacon until it is crisp, drain it on paper towels and set it aside to keep hot. Season thin slices of calf's liver with a little salt and sprinkle them with flour. Brown them quickly in the bacon fat. Arrange the liver on a serving dish and keep it warm. Discard the fat from the pan in which the liver was cooked but do not wash the pan. Add 2 tablespoons butter to the pan and cook it until it is brown. Sprinkle the liver with a few drops lemon juice, pour the melted butter over it and sprinkle it with chopped parsley. Garnish the platter with the crisp bacon.
Foie de Porc aux Oignons (Pork Liver with Onions)
Cook 2 onions, sliced, in 2 tablespoons butter until (hey are golden-brown. Season them with a little salt ami pepper. Season 6 slices of pork liver with salt and pepper and rub them with a little flour. In another pan heat 3 tablespoons pork fat and in it brown the pork liver quickly on both sides. Remove the liver to a serving dish and keep it warm. Discard the fat from the pan but do not wash the pan. Add to the pan 2 tablespoons vinegar and the onions, and bring the mixture just to a boil. Cover the liver with the onions and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Fressure de Porc
Cut 2 pounds mixed pork heart, liver and lungs into small pieces and season the meat with salt and pepper. Brown the meat on all sides in 2 tablespoons leaf lard. Add 2 onions, chopped, and 2 tablespoons flour and cook, stirring, until the flour has browned slightly. Stir in ¾ cup red wine and enough water to cover the meat. Add a fagot made by tying together 1 stalk of celery, 4 sprigs of parsley, 1 small bay leaf and 1 sprig of thyme. Bring the mixture to a boil, shaking the pan occasionally. Cover the pan and cook the stew slowly for 1 hour. If desired, 6 small peeled potatoes may be added to the pan after the first 20 minutes of cooking.
Pâté de Foie de Porc (Pork Liver Pâté)
Combine 2 pounds pork liver, cut into small pieces, and ¾ pound each of lean pork and fat salt pork, and put the meat through a grinder. Put the ground meat in a mixing bowl, add 1 tablespoon flour, and work all together with a wooden spoon for 3 to 5 minutes. Beat in 2 eggs, one at a time. Add ½ teaspoon salt, a pinch of poultry seasoning, 2 tablespoons chopped shallot and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. Cut ¼ pound fat salt pork into thin strips and line the bottom of a bread pan or a baking dish with half of the strips. Fill the pan with the pâté mixture and cover the pate with the remaining salt pork slices. Cover the bread pan, set it in a pan half full of boiling water and bake it in a moderate oven (375° F.) for 1 ½ to 1 ¾ hours. Cool the pâté, unmold it and serve as an hors-d'oeuvre.
There are a great number of different specialty meats and the recipes for preparing them are so numerous that it would be impossible to include them all in this one article. I have, therefore, arbitrarily chosen to deal with liver, kidneys, and brains here, and promise to discuss others at a later date.
Calf's brains and beef brains are considered great delicacies in both France and America, At the old New York Ritz, we were always prepared to serve at least thirty to forty portions of calf's brains each day, and as the years went by, the demand increased.
Brains, like sweetbreads, require a precooking or blanching. However, brains must be kept covered with the cooking liquor until final preparations are begun. One brain is ample for two or three portions.
Precooking of Calf's or Beef Brains
Wash the brains in cold water. Remove the membrane which covers them, and any blood. Soak the brains in cold water for several hours, changing the water frequently. Put them in a saucepan, cover them with cold water and add 2 tablespoons vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt, 5 peppercorns, ½ onion, sliced, 1 small carrot, sliced, and a fagot made of 4 sprigs of parsley, 1 sprig of thyme and 1 bay leaf. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover the pan and simmer the brains for 25 to 30 minutes. Let the brains cool in the cooking liquor.
Cervelles Sautées (Sautéed Brains)
Clean and precook 2 or 3 brains and cut each one into 6 slices. Dip the slices in flour and sauté them in butter until they are nut-brown on both sides. Arrange the brains on a heated serving dish to keep hot. In a saucepan cook 4 tablespoon butter until it is brown. Pour the browned butter over the brains. sprinkle them with chopped parsley and garnish with lemon slices.
Cervelles an Beurre Noir (Brains with Black Butter)
Clean and precook 2 or 3 brains and cut each one into 6 slices. Arrange the slices on a hot serving dish, season them with salt and pepper and sprinkle with chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon vinegar and about 12 capers. In a small pan cook 3 tablespoons butter until it is almost black. Pour the black butter over the brains and serve them very hot.
Cervelles Vinaigrette (Brains with Vinaigrette Sauce)
Clean and precook 2 or 3 brains and cut each one into 6 slices. Arrange the slices on a serving dish and pour over them sauce vinaigrette (May, 1955) to which a chopped hard-cooked egg has been added. Sprinkle the brain slices with finely chopped chives, tarragon and chervil. Serve either hot or cold.