Les uns se rendent à l'église,
Les autres dans les restaurants.
That is the way one French poet describes Christmas Eve, meaning that for some it is a very solemn night, for others a very gay one. But my memories of Noël in the land of my birth are that it is usually both. The solemn Christmas mass is followed by gay parties, sometimes at restaurants, sometimes at home.
In country places, like the town I came from, there are no big restaurants, but every household has its array of charcuterie, pâtés, terrines of game, brioche, crème vanilla, and other favorite regional specialties laid out on the table before the family sets out for church. And the bottles of vins du pays to be opened after returning from mass! They are both generous and good. In Paris, however, the great restaurants are ablaze with light and crowded with beautifully dressed women and men in formal evening clothes. The parties start gathering about ten o'clock, and after the midnight service every place is crowded to capacity.
French holidays are always an excuse for feasting and certainly Noël with its gay réveillon suppers at midnight and big family dinners on Christmas Day is no exception. But Noël is not much of a time for giving presents—at least it wasn't when I was young. Gifts are distributed at New Year's, when Père Janvier leaves the children a few small toys and fills the wooden sabots, put out on New Year's Eve, with the traditional orange, nuts, and bonbons. During my many years in New York I've been interested in noticing how many French people in this country and Americans who have lived abroad combine the French tradition of feasting with the American custom of gifts by remembering their friends at Christmas with food specialties. The scores of terrines and pâtés that I have made and the baskets of gourmet shop delicacies I've given have long been the delight of my friends. I am sure Mr. Goelet, who owned the old New York Ritz, and his French wife would have been very disappointed had I neglected to send a Christmas pâté for their repas de réveillon, Mr. Goelet always remembered his friends each year with a gift of food too, usually a brace of pheasants raised on his estate at Sandrincourt, not far from Paris. Each year about fifty brace, a male and a female, packed in one of those huge baskets used in France for transporting perishables, were sent over on the ship that would arrive in New York nearest to Christmas, the so-called “Christmas sailing.”
The réveillon dinner or supper starts the Noël feasting. Served at about midnight, it often lasts well into the small hours of Christmas morning. So for December I give you a menu for a typical réveillon dinner, typical, that is, of la haute cuisine. It is also a menu from which those who prefer a light supper can choose just a few of the season's specialties.
There are two facts that I would like to call to your attention in this menu. One is that all the foods, with perhaps the salad greens as an exception, are seasonal ones, at their best in December. Oysters are traditional at Christmas not only in France, but in this country, too. Many food-loving families, even in bygone days when salt-water fish and shellfish were infrequently seen in the Middle West, always made sure that a barrel of iced oysters was shipped out for Christmas Eve. Game, particularly furred game, is at its peak this month, citrus fruits are at their best, the big shiny brown chestnuts are in season, and baskets of endive, precisely packed by meticulous Belgian farmers, are in every market. The other fact that should delight gourmets is the succession of flavors in this meal. Shellfish, chicken, fish, then beef, furred game, and feathered game; each is laced with complementary foods and flavors—with truffles, wine, and goose liver, with butter cream, brown sauce, or currant jelly. All this is followed, as it should be, by the clean, slightly garlicky tang of a salad and the fine, simple freshness of a tangerine-flavored ice.
Making a menu is, to me, more than a task of assembling foods and dishes that go well together and are suitable for the occasion. I always relive the many times the dishes have been prepared, recalling the people who particularly liked them or the occasions on which dishes that later became quite famous were first introduced. And I recall too the scores of times when a very human concern over whether a new dish would “catch on” outweighed all other considerations. I suspect every host and hostess probably have similar reactions. My advice is to be wary of the exotic in planning menus until you have mastered the traditional. Never be afraid to serve frequently the dishes you do the best and that are known favorites with your guests. But at the same time, don't hesitate to add new specialties to your repertoire as you broaden your own culinary accomplishments.
Now, if you ever want to serve good wine, this is the night. The best bottles are brought out for le réveillon. Kitchen and cellar must work together for this annual feast. You can, and some people do, serve the same wine all during the evening—or should I say morning. For this menu I suggest the following: an aperitif, perhaps sherry, but no cocktails, please, before the oysters. A good Chablis, 1947, 1948, 1949, or 1950, or a Graves 1945, 1947, or 1948, would be my choice with the fish. Then with the tournedos, try a Chateau Cos d'Esroumel 1945, 1947, or 1948, or a Mouton-Rothschild 1947, 1948, 1949, or 1950. With the venison, I recommend a Gevrey-Chambertin 1942, 1947, 1949, or 1950 or a Clos de Vougeot 1937, 1942, or 1949 or a Chateau Haut-Brion. Finish this réveillon with champagne, and say au revoir over a good cognac.
Cocktail Sauce for Oysters
Mix together 1 cup tomato ketchup, ½ cup chili sauce, 1 tablespoon each of vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, and grated horseradish, the juice of 1 lemon, ¼ teaspoon celery salt, and 5 drops of Tabasco sauce. Chill. Serve with oysters or other shellfish.
Crème Elisabeth (Cream of Chicken Soup)
Bring 6 cups chicken broth to a boil. Add gradually 2/3 cup quick-cooking tapioca, whisking constantly with a wire whip, and cook slowly for 10 minutes, or until the soup is slightly thickened and smooth. Remove the soup from the heat.
Beat 3 egg yolks and combine with 1 ¼ cups heavy cream and a little of the hot soup. Add the egg mixture slowly to the soup, stirring briskly, and cook over very low hear, stirring constantly, until the soup almost reaches the boil. Be careful not to let it boil. Stir in 2 tablespoons butter and ¼ cup cream and correct the seasoning with salt.
Bar Rayé de Mer an Gratin (Filet of Striped Bass au Gratin)
Remove and set aside the stems from 8 medium mushrooms. Clean the caps and cook them for about 5 minutes in water to cover with 4 or 5 drops of lemon juice. Leave the mushroom caps in the cooking liquor and set aside.
In a small saucepan melt 1 tablespoon butter and in it saute 1 tablespoon chopped shallot or onion until transparent, but not brown. Clean 6 medium or 12 small mushrooms, combine them with the reserved stems of the cooked mushrooms, and chop all together finely. Add the chopped mushrooms to the butter and shallots and cook slowly until almost all the moisture from the mushrooms is cooked away. Add 1 teaspoon chopped parsley and ½ cup brown sauce (see January, 1953), or good meat gravy or tomato sauce, and cook for a few minutes until the sauce is thoroughly combined.
Spread the bottom of an ovenproof serving dish with about half the sauce and on it place the boned and skinned filets from 5 small striped bass. Sprinkle the filets with a little salt and pepper. Drain the mushroom caps, arrange them on the filets, and cover with the remaining sauce. Sprinkle with fine bread crumbs, 1 tablespoon melted butter, and about 1/3 cup white wine and bake in a moderate oven (425° F.) for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the top is brown and the fish is cooked. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with a few drops of lemon juice and 1 teaspoon chopped parsley.
Tournedos Rossini
Tournedos are slices cut from ¾ to 1 inch thick from a beef filet trimmed of fat and sinews. They are cut toward the end section of the filet, not toward the large center section which provides filet mignon and chateaubriand.
Cut 6 slices of goose liver about ¼ inch thick, roll the slices in flour, and saute them on both sides in hot butter or goose fat until golden brown. Sauté 6 tournedos in hot butter for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, or until medium rare. Arrange the tournedos on a warm serving platter with a slice of goose liver on top of each and keep warm.
Discard the fat from the pan in which the tournedos were cooked and add 2 tablespoons sweet butter, 24 thin slices of truffle, a little of the juice from the truffle can, and ¼ cup Madeira or sherry. Cook the truffles for 1 minute, stir in 1 cup brown sauce (see January, 1953) and 2 tablespoons glace de viande or meat extract, and cook the sauce until it is reduced to two-thirds its original quantity. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper and stir in another 2 tablespoons Madeira or sherry. Arrange the truffles on the goose liver and pour the sauce over all.
Endives à la Flamande
Wash 1 to 1 ½ pounds of Belgian endives in cold water and drain. Arrange the endives in a single layer in a shallow pan so that all lie in the same direction. Add ½ teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon sugar, the juice of half a lemon, 2 to 3 tablespoons butter, and ½ cup water. Bring the liquid to a boil and cover the endives with a circle of buttered wax paper with a small hole in the center to let the steam escape. Cover the pan and cook the endives in a moderate oven (375° F.) or over a slow fire for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the endives are tender. Pour the butter from the pan over the endives and serve. The butter may be mixed with a little good meat gravy if desired.
Selle de Chevreuil Rôtie (Roast Saddle of Venison)
Remove all the outside furred skin from the venison, the second skin, which is under the outside skin, and all sinews. Put the saddle in a deep bowl, cover it with the following cooked marinade, and let it marinate in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days, turning it frequently so that the marinade will penetrate the meat on all sides.
When ready to cook the venison, remove it from the marinade, dry the surface thoroughly, and lard the top with strips of fat salt pork. Season the meat with salt, put it in a roasting pan with enough fat or oil to permit generous basting, and roast in a hot oven (450° F.), basting frequently. The time required to cook the saddle, which should be cooked rare, depends on the size of the animal from which it came and the thickness of the meat. For a saddle of 5 to 6 pounds allow about 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Place the venison on a warm serving dish, remove the slices of fat pork covering it, and if glace de viande is available, spread it lightly over the venison. Serve with sauce poivrade.
Cooked Marinade
In a saucepan put 1 quart of water, 1 ½ cups vinegar, 1 or 2 onions, chopped, 1 carrot, sliced, 1 clove of garlic, I teaspoon thyme, 2 bay leaves, 4 sprigs of parsley, 12 to 15 peppercorns, and 1 tablespoon salt. Bring the liquid to a boil and simmer for 1 hour. Cool the marinade and pour it over the meat.
Poivrade Sauce
Discard the fat from the roasting pan, but do not wash the pan. Add to the pan 2 tablespoons vinegar, 1 tablespoon chopped shallot or onion, 1 cup brown sauce (see January, 1953) or good meat gravy, ½ cup tomato sauce, 2 sprigs of parsley, a small bay leaf, a little thyme, and 1 cup stock. Bring the sauce to a boil and simmer until it is reduced to about 1 ½ cups.
Meanwhile crush 8 peppercorns, put them in a pan with 1 cup dry red wine, and simmer until the wine is reduced to 1/3 cup. Pour the same from the roasting pan into the red wine mixture and cook slowly for about 25 minutes, skimming as needed. Correct the seasoning with salt, strain the sauce through a fine sieve, and stir in 2 tablespoons red currant jelly. Serve with game.
Purée dc Marrons (Chestnut Purée)
With a sharp knife cut a slit or small cross in the rounded tops of 2 pounds of chestnuts and cook the chestnuts in a hot oven (425° F.) or under the broiler flame for 8 to 10 minutes. When the nuts are coot enough to handle, remove the shells and the skin beneath the shells. Put the chestnuts in a saucepan with enough salted water to cover and add 2 or 3 stalks of celery. Bring the water to a boil and simmer the nuts for 30 minutes, or until tender. Cool the nuts in the liquid.
Remove the chestnuts from the liquid and press them through a fine sieve. Reheat the purée with butter and cream, using 1 tablespoon each of butter and heavy cream for each cup of purée. Correct the seasoning with salt.
Terrine de Faison Truffée au Madère (Pheasant Pâté with Truffles and Madeira Aspic)
Clean and bone a large pheasant and remove the skin without tearing it and reserve. Cut off the breasts and the leg meat, saving the remaining carcass and bones to make the aspic. Cut each breast into 6 slices and add to it 6 slices, cut about the same size, of lean fresh pork or veal or both. Put all the sliced meat in a bowl and cover it with a marinade made by combining ½ teaspoon salt, a pinch of poultry seasoning, 2 tablespoons cognac, ¼ cup dry sherry or Madeira, 1 small bay leaf, and a little thyme. Place on top 3 sprigs of parsley, 1 small clove of garlic, and 3 or 4 slices of onion and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Cover the bowl and let the meat marinate in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight.
Remove the sinews from the leg meat, combine the leg meat with ¾ pound of lean fresh pork or equal parts of pork and veal, and ¾ pound of fresh fat pork, and put through a meat chopper, using the finest blade. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons goose liver, 1 to 2 tablespoons finely chopped truffles, and 1 egg and mix well. Pour over this forcemeat a marinade made of ½ teaspoon salt, a pinch of poultry seasoning, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 2 tablespoons cognac, and about 1/3 cup dry white wine. Cover the forcemeat and put it in the refrigerator with the sliced meat.
When ready to make the pâté, remove the sliced meat from the marinade, discarding the vegetables. Prepare 6 large strips of cooked ham or oxtongue, 12 large strips of truffles, and 6 large strips of goose liver.
Line a terrine or a medium-sized, straight-sided casserole with the skin of the pheasant and cover the bottom and sides with thin slices of fat pork. Pack in about one-third of the forcemeat, then lay on it half the slices of marinated pheasant breast alternately with half the slices of fresh pork or pork and veal, the strips of ham or oxtongue, the truffles, and the goose liver. Pack in one-third more of the forcemeat, lay on the remaining meat, truffles, and goose liver, and finish by packing in the remaining forcemeat. Cover with thin slices of fat pork, pull the edges of skin over the top, and cover the skin with slices of fat pork. Add a small bay leaf and cover the casserole. Seal the edges of the casserole with a stiff dough of flour and water, set the casserole in a pan containing 1 to 2 inches of hot water, and bake in a hot oven (400° F.) for 1 ½ to 1 ¾ hours, or for about 30 minutes per pound. To tell when the pâté is done, remove the dough seal and take off the cover; if the melted fat is clear, the pâté is done, if it has a cloudy appearance, more cooking is required. When done, take off the cover, place 5 or 6 plates on top to weigh the pâté down and give it a compact shape, and cool.
Remove the pâté from the casserole (setting the casserole in hot water for a few moments will loosen it) and scrape away the fat from the outside. Clean the casserole and return the pâté bottom side up. Pour in cool but still liquid Madeira aspic made from the pheasant carcass and chill until the aspic is set. Slice and serve directly from the casserole.
Madeira Aspic
In a saucepan put the pheasant bones and carcass that were not used in making the pâté. Add 2 calf's feet or 2 to 4 veal bones, a beef bone, 1 tablespoon salt, 1 slice each of carrot and onion, 1 bay leaf, 1 or 2 leeks, 1 stalk of celery, and 3 quarts water. Bring the water to a boil, skim as needed, and simmer for several hours to make a strong broth. Strain the broth, cool, and remove the fat from the surface.
To clarify the stock, add 2 egg whites, stiffly beaten. ½ pound of chopped beef, a few peppercorns, salt if necessary, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, and 3 sprigs each of chervil and tarragon. Bring the stock slowly to a boil, stirring constantly. As soon as the boiling point is reached, turn the heat down as low as possible, and simmer the broth for about 30 minutes. Strain the broth through line cheesecloth or muslin and stir in 2 tablespoons Madeira. Sherry or port may be used in place of the Madeira.
Salade à la Française
Select salad greens such as lettuce, romaine, chicory, escarole, or any combination of them. Separate the leaves. discarding any bruised or brown parts. and wash in a large quantity of running water to rinse out any sand clinging in the crevices. Drain the greens in a colander and break the leaves into forksized pieces. Put the greens in a wire salad basket or in a linen towel and shake or swing the basket or towel to remove as much water as possible. Handle the greens carefully or the leaves will be bruised. Chill.
For 6 servings prepare the following French dressing: Mix together 2 tablespoons vinegar, ½ teaspoon mustard. and a little salt and freshly ground pepper. Add gradually 6 tablespoons olive oil, stirring vigorously. Also prepare 2 teaspoons mixed, finely chopped parsley and chives and 1 teaspoon each of chopped tarragon and chervil. If garlic is desired, prepare chapons by rubbing small slices of toasted French bread with the cut side of a clove of garlic.
When ready to serve, put the salad greens, chopped herbs, and chapons in a chilled salad bowl, pour on the dressing, and loss thoroughly but carefully, so as not to crush the leaves.
Mandarines Givrées (Tangerine Ice)
Cut off the tops of 6 tangerines and reserve the tops. With a spoon remove all the pulp from the fruit and save the shells for serving the ice. Squeeze the tangerine juice from the pulp and add to it the juice of 6 more tangerines and enough orange juice to make 2 cups of juice in all. Carefully cut the zest, the very thin surface skin without any of the white underneath, from 4 of the tangerine skins and 2 of the orange skins and cut it into very fine strips.
Stir 2 cups sugar into 1 ½ cups water, bring to a boil, and boil briskly for 5 minutes. Add the zest to the syrup and cool. Add the fruit juice and, if desired, 1 or 2 drops of red and yellow food coloring. Strain the mixture through a line sieve and freeze, using 3 parts ice to 1 part coarse salt. When the ice is partially frozen, remove and fold in 2 egg whites, stiffly beaten with 2 tablespoons sugar, and continue to freeze until the ice is solid. Fill the tangerine shells with the ice, place the tops on them, and put the tangerines in the freezer or set them carefully in a deep pan that can be tightly closed and surrounded with salt and ice.