The thing about France which charms and flabbergasts the observant traveler is its incorrigible diversity. It is an area smaller than Texas (a time-worn statistic which l've never bothered to check), but within its borders it packs every art and science and industry, every twist of geography—and forty million Frenchmen besides. (That forty-million cliché should be revised soon, by the way, for the newer generation of French couples is setting records in fertility.)
Less than a century ago, there was a flaw in France's geographical perfection—she had no outstanding lakes. But when the kingdom of Sardinia began to fall apart, a treaty was signed in 1860 which returned the province of Savoy to France, provided that the population approved. The secret plebiscite which followed produced a landslide which could occur only in the Alps—130,833 votes in favor, 235 opposed—and with no armed NKVD guards standing near the urns looking ominous, either. Thus the bejeweled lakes of Annecy and Bourget, and a southern strip of lac Léman, became a part of the French diadem. For good measure, the valley of Chamonix was thrown in, a fact which means a lot, to present-day skiers. Furthermore, the Comté de Nice, a priceless strip of the Riviera, indeed, returned to the tricolor under the same treaty.
It was a little deal in history which had a profound effect on succeeding generations of travelers. They have been flocking to the Riviera by thousands ever since. It is a pity that a greater proportion of them haven't also explored Savoy, the other prize package of ninety yean ago. They would find comparable beauties of nature and almost as much man-made comfort. Savoy's climate, one must admit, is not what one finds on the Azure Coast, but its cooking (at last, he's getting to the point!) runs a phetofinish with the best that Riviera chefs can produce.
This is a land of well-organized hotels, planned alike for the summer vacationist, the fanatic skier, and the rheumatic toddler. Aix-les-Bains, Annecy, Chamonix, Mégève, Chambéry, Evian—they are names straight from your travel folder, and their hotels have been catering to foreign visitors for decades. “Cushioned comfort” has become standard commodity in most Savoy hotels. That's fine, if a certain standardized “international” cooking doesn't accompany the comfort. Some hotels find it prudent to serve routine, banal, nobody-can-object fare, and their clientele doubtless adores it. But such hostelries aren't for the cooking-conscious readers of this family magazine, and we won't be so indelicate as to mention the painful subject again. But Savoy also rejoices in many country inns and hotels, particularly around lac d'Annecy, where you can have your comfort and inspired regional food at the same time. These are the ones we have sought out. Frequently you will observe that the feminine touch rules supreme in these country kitchens. Savoy is noted for its capable cuisinères, and a Carême en jupon may well prepare your finest meal. She has plenty to work with!
The culinary lockbox of Savoy is munificently stocked. Abundant game hides on those mountain slopes—hare, partridge, quail, woodcock. The forests are fragrant with the smell of wild mushrooms and fraises des bois. The honey of Savoy, gathered from wild Alpine flowers, is surpassed in fragrance only by the linden-blossom nectar of Crimea. The green slopes tinkle musically with the sound of cowbells, for pedigreed cattle graze here eight months a year, assuring the Savoyard epicure of good beef, wonderful milk, cream, and cheese. Boundless cherries in springtime account for the cool casks of kirsch which are aging in Savoy cellars.
But the greatest epicurean asset of Savoy is its fresh-water fish. Those crystal lakes yield piscatorial treasures unknown in other parts of France. The most unforgettable is the omble chevalier, admittedly a strange name for a fish. It is a close cousin to the trout, but more subtle and delicate. Briefly, it is the best darn fish that we've ever tasted, voilà tout! From lac Léman alone comes another rarity, a salmonpink fellow called a féra. If you ever go to Evian and fail to order this fish, you're no gourmet! The rivers and rapids of Savoy yield fine trout. The lake trout, of course, are bigger, sometimes even immense. They have been taken forty inches long and weighing thirty-three pounds. The lake trout's flesh is pink or white depending upon his chosen diet—shellfish or minnows. The lotte, whose large, oily liver is cherished more than he is, the multicolored perch, and the greedy pike are all candidates for the lucky Savoyard's table.
Sure-footed cattle roam at will in the fertile Alpine slopes and, as a reward for such freedom, produce prodigious quantities of milk. The best of them yield three tons in an eight-month period, according to sober statistics. Country life is devoted, above all else, to converting this lactic bounty into cheese. Most of it is the conventional Swiss type, but Savoy is also noted for its Roblochon, a fascinating cheese in the manner of a Fort du Salut. Your Alpine farmer is a vigorous fellow who mows his fields, watches his cattle, and then digs in for the winter, bringing his animals with him. His house requires a broad and sturdy roof, with a wide, protecting overhang. It has to he strong, for these villages are prey to formidable snows in winter. One of them, near Argentières, has a seasonal fall of twenty-eight feet. Family and beast live in the same large room during the long winter months, and you would be surprised how well it solves the heating problem, though a bit aromatically.
Vineyards prosper in these rugged valleys, although the tempestuous autumn often makes the vendange a period of acute anguish for the wine-grower. The wines of Savoy cannot be dismissed as just local wines. They have finish and style, but they are poor travelers and must be sampled on home territory to reveal their elusive virtues. The names most worth remembering are Seyssel, Digny, Crépy and Marétel, all whites. They are dry and full, with overtones of flint stone. Some oenophiles detect the aroma of truffle in a Digny and a faint whiff of the violet in a Crépy. Experts and amateurs alike will react with enthusiasm to Roussette de Frangy and Roussette do Seyssel, two lovely wines haunted with the perfume of almonds. At the top of the list is a regal nectar called Altesse de Frangy, which, depending upon the year, can be either liquorous or dry. It is supposedly pressed from a grape which was brought from Cyprus by a prince of the House of Savoy.
Among the red wines of Savoy most acclaim seems to go to those from Saint-Jean-de-la-Porte and Montmélian.
Geographically, Savoy is tucked in by Switzerland, Italy, and the two French provinces of La Bresse and Dauphiné. It is composed of two départments, Savoie and Haute-Savoie, and it is in the latter that the gourmet finds his happiest hunting ground. Everyone agrees that it is one of the most concentrated areas of good food in France. The list of fine Savoy restaurants is long. Here are some of the more notable tables:
Evian-les-Bains (Haute-Savoie)
This is probably the most untagged town in Savoy, basking on the shore of lac Léman, luxuriating in casinos, villas, and a world-wide reputation for mineral water. Lord Byron was enchanted by Evian, and thousands of visitors agree with him, all except for that 22 per cent tax on their bill. Something quite different in the way of a hotel awaits you in Evian. It is the HÔTEL LA VERNIAZ, an ancient domaine on a plateau overlooking the town. In its lovely park are scattered eight little chalets for guests, where you can spend a few days in Edenlike surroundings and enjoy your meals in a flowered courtyard. Monsieur and Madame Verdier, your hosts, are very food-conscious and provide regional specialties for their guests, including salmon trout and that unique féra from the lake. The wine list contains some, unusual items, including a Ripaille which has the unmistakable aroma of a peach. The prices are very fair, and it would be wise to write ahead for one of those chalets!
Maxilly-Petite-Rive (Haute-Savoie)
In this little town about two miles east of Evian on the shore road, is the HÔTEL LUMINA, a modern and comfortable establishment with individual terraces for each room and a pleasant garden leading to the lake. Such a description applies to all sorts of neighboring hotels, but the extraordinary cooking of the Hôtel Lumina sets it apart from the others. Here are those superb fish again—omble chevalier au Chambertin, féra à l'estragon, truite au champagne—and here is the plump poularde de Bresse perfumed with the herbs of Savoy. Monsieur Devaux has a nice cool Crépy in his cellar to accompany the feast. In case you need to work up an appetite, the hotel provides canoes, rowboats, and the facilities for a preprandial dip in the lake.
Annemasse (Haute-Savoie)
In this town, which is practically on the Swiss border and within walking distance of Geneva, you will find a master chef who, in his youth, won the contest to determine the best worker in France in his chosen profession. His name is Monsieur Schweckler, and he still presides majestically over the kitchen ranges of the HÔTEL DU MIDI. His repertory is impressive, and you are certain to sample something special, depending upon the season. It may be bécasses flambées or perdreaux vigneronne or canard à l'orange or coq au vin. Or perhaps he will propose filet de féra à la crème, accompanied by a cool bottle of Crépy. But whatever happens, don't miss his terrine savoyarde!
Sallanches (Haute-Savoie)
The Savoyard experts say that one of the most breathtaking of all views of Mont Blanc is from Sallanches, at sunset. This is the classic point of departure for Alpinists and a prime favorite with discriminating gastronomes and summer visitors, who are very fond of the aquatic splendors of the neighboring Mont-Blanc-Plage. The mountain-climbers have sought out one particular place for decades. It is called LA CHAUMIÈRE, but it hasn't any straw roof, as its name might indicate. Its architecture, in fact, is banal. It bases its fame instead on the careful and highly individual cuisine of Monsieur Carl. The meals are copious, well served, and reasonable in price.
Mégève (Haute-Savoie)
This, of course, is the skier's Paradise, to coin a phrase. With two téléphériques, a ski school, numerous ski tows, and a skating rink, it has about everything, including admirable hotels. We didn't go there, it being September, but everyone told us that the best choice for lunch is the RESTAURANT L'HOSTELLERIE, and all the guidebooks agree.
Chamonix (Haute-Savoie)
Chamonix is perhaps the smartest, most cosmopolitan place in the Alps; during the skier's season and in the summer months it enjoys equal popularity. Its site, in the heart of the most spectacular mountain valley in Europe, defies description. Incontestably, Mont Blanc makes a titanic backdrop to a luncheon. Even if the cooking of Savoy were so-so, you would never forget a luncheon served in a flowered terrace in Chamonix, facing the majesty of this sublime mountain range. But the fare is far from indifferent, especially if you choose the terrace of the HÔTEL DES ALPES as vantage point. This is a hotel with a noble tradition, having been under the direction of the Lavaivre family for over ninety years. It is gay and luxurious, with a park, tennis courts, and a rustic bar. And the food is exceptional. Try a suprême de volailles aux morilles or a féra farcie and you'll undoubtedly share our enthusiasm for the Hôtel des Alpes. There is no extra charge for the most overwhelming mise en scène in Europe.
Chambéry (Savoie)
The ancient capital of the Dukes of Savoy is a gracious, picturesque city, dominated by its immense ducal château. It has undergone many vicissitudes, including considerable damage during the recent war. Its Italian background is recalled by rococo chapels and arcaded streets, but it is overwhelmingly French now. One of the best French vermouths comes from Chambéry. It is not quite so dry as the others and, chilled, is delightful all by itself as an apéritif. Chambéry fraise is an accepted classic in all good French cafés. If you are just passing through Chaméry, gastronomic adventure lies not in the city but on its outskirts. This is the famed RESTAURANT MONT-CARMEL, in the village of Barberaz. It is located on the route des Charmettes, about a mile southeast of Chambéry. Here you are welcomed to the establishment of Monsieur Audibert, a master chef who has built up a formidable reputation among the fines fourchettes of the region. There is an inspiring vista of the valley and the mountains from the Mont-Carmel dining terrace, and Monsieur Audibert's cooking possesses a majesty comparable to the view. His individual approach in preparing trout, omble chevalier, crayfish, and game of the region should enchant both the refined palate and the robust appetite.
Aix-les-Bains (Haute-Savoie)
It would be impertinent to “say a few words” about this universally known watering place. For two thousand years people have been coming here for thermal treatments, and the remains of Gallo-Roman baths are here to prove it. It is one of the great spas of the world, set like a jewel near the shore of the lac du Bourget. A ville d'eau with much more to offer than mere water, it has everything for the cosmopolite—casinos, golf courses, theaters, and hotels palatial in size. There is a shortage of palatial names, however, because one hotel bagged three of the classic names all for itself. It's the Hôtel Splendide, Royal et Excelsior. Needless to say, you can dine handsomely here or at the casino or in a dozen other imposing palaces. If your taste runs to simpler spots, we think you will be happy at the AUBERGE DES QUATRE VALETS, a cheerful, mondain restaurant facing the shaded square Boucher. Your host is Monsieur Quatrevaley, and with a name like that he could hardly avoid naming his auberge as he did. He has an ace up his sleeve, too, in Monsieur Ricard, the cook. Here are regional specialties in plenty, omble chevalier à la crème and the unctuous gratin de queues d'écrevisses among them, with those fine wines from Crépy, Digny, and Seyssel to set them off. There were three menus last fall, ranging from two to three dollars, and they were skillfully served. So there are multiple reasons to recommend the Inn of the Four Jacks.
Saint-Félix (Haute-Savoie)
This little town is about midway between Aix-les-Bains and Annecy, very near the borderline between the two départements. This accounts for the name of the RELAIS DES DEUX SAVOIES, an inviting roadside spot with a colorful terrace. It requires more than a beguiling name, however, to account for the popularity of this epicurean relay post. The secret, of course, is in the cooking, which is done, believe it or not, by a gentleman named Monsieur Secret. He is especially gifted in preparing feuilleté au fromage. If you are partial to luxurious desserts, you will never forget his vacherin glacé.
Annecy (Haute-Savoie)
A lyric poet is needed to describe this fascinating old town and the mountain-framed crystal lake which takes its name. There couldn't be a more charming place for a vacation, even if you were a dyspeptic. But if you are interested in food, it becomes an epic experience. The borders of the lac d'Annecy embrace a constellation, a cascade, a feu d'artifice, of wonderful restaurants. It doesn't take long to drive around this opalescent lake, a matter of some twenty-five miles. You can also do it by boat in an afternoon. But a fortnight is needed to sample all of its epicurean treasures! One famous gastronomical journalist who contends that good food is one of the two reasons for living also contends that no rural area in France can compare with the concentration of cooking splendor from Easter to October around the Lake of Annecy. Merely to enumerate them is an awe-inspiring task.
Annecy is unpretentious compared to Aix-les-Bains, but its hotels are comfortable, its pastry shops seductive, and its cafés gay. We look a particular affection to the TAVERNE DE SAVOIE because it was one of the rare places where we could order a truly light dinner after a regal lunch somewhere along the lake. It is a part of the Splendide Hotel and a charming place to read the paper and indulge in a picon citron. It should not be confused with the AUBERGE DE SAVOIE, which is a rustic spot down near the canals, adjoining a Renaissance church. Here is probably the best food in Annecy, and a fitting place to sample the famous omble chevalier. Tournedas aux morilles is another unforgettable specialty of Monsieur Milanési's cook. Prices are a bit above the average, as they are in most of the restaurants around the lake.
Duingt (Haute-Savoie)
This little town jutting into the lake is very likely the most picturesque village along its shores. It faces Talloires and its culinary radiance with a challenge in the person of Monsieur Fugier and his HÔTEL DES LIBELLULES, which means dragonflies. The hotel occupies a privileged promontory on the lake, quiet, comfortable, tree-shrouded. A particular accolade must go to the cook, Monsieur Durand, who has presided over this wonderful kitchen for twenty-seven years. A week in this sheltered inn with the panorama of the lake and the prodigal plenty of Monsieur Durand's regional dishes—that's living!
Chavoire (Haute-Savoie)
In this little town, about three miles southeast of Annecy, is an imposing temple of gastronomy, PAVILION ERMITAGE. It sits high above the lake, its garden sparkling with flowers and awnings, a seraphic setting for Monsieur Rostang's inspired food. You have a master chef here, one who raises regional cookery to an absolute pinnacle. Try his soufflé de quenelles aux écrevisses, and you'll be convinced of his genius.
Talloires (Haute-Savoie)
The conscientious gourmet is in a dilemma when he arrives in this lakeside village, for here is the most glittering concentration of all. Four alluring alternatives present themselves during the season. You can't possibly go wrong with any one of them:
AUBERGE DU PÈRE BISE is the famous one, the most Lucullan-looking and with the choicest segment of lakefront. You enjoy the fastidious fare, made famous by Le Père Bise and loyally perpetuated by Monsieur Marius Bise, in a shaded pavilion at the water's clear edge. The food, the service, and the wine cellar are magnificent and impeccable, for want of better words. It belongs right up in the top rank of postwar French restaurants and is expensive, but worth it.
HÔTEL LE COTTAGE, within a stone's throw, is supervised by Monsieur Georges Bise, who carries on the family tradition for superlative cooking. The dining terrace has, needless to say, a superb view of the lake. The rooms are pleasant, the prices within reason, and the culinary splendor quite beyond my range of rosy adjectives.
HÔTEL DE L'ABBAYE is something different again, an ancient monastery which has been converted into a summer hotel. It is rich in eighteenth-century atmosphere and a charming spot for a vacation. True to the Talloires tradition, Monsieur Tiffenat serves a superb table.